Harney Basin and High Desert Lakes

Human coprolites, a notch in a glacier-carved gorge, and a refuge for two-thirds of Pacific waterfowl

There are several distinct areas of this shrub-steppe ecoregion of the Columbia Plateau. For the purposes of this discussion, the Snake-Columbia shrub-steppe ecoregion is subdivided into four sections, based on biological or geographic criteria. The first and second areas were discussed in Parts I and II. The third area is the Harney Basin and High Desert Lakes area, distinguished by internal drainage but also having lava plains. This area includes Steens Mountain and Harney Basin in Oregon, both areas characterized by volcanic activity and marked by numerous unusual volcanic features. The vast sagebrush steppe is punctuated by the partly forested Steens Mountains; glacial lake basins, now mostly dry; wetlands along the Malheur and Silvies River, Warner Basin, Honey Lake, and Lake Abert; and barren playas surrounding Summer Lake, Silver Lake, and the Alvord Desert. The wetlands and lakes are Important Bird Areas (IBAs) for migratory waterfowl and shorebirds.

One of the biggest and most intense archeological disputes involves the timing of the first human migration into North America and South America. Evidence for settlement up to 30,000 years ago has been presented, but it is in dispute. The most widely accepted dates for occupation relate to the Clovis complex, which is dated about 11,000 years before present (BP). The Paisley Caves (site 1), Oregon (N42˚46’ W120˚33’) have the oldest directly dated human remains in the Western Hemisphere, with initial human occupation at least 12,300 BP (Jenkins et al. 2012; Gilbert et al. 2008). The direct dating is from human DNA, and the DNA is from 65 coprolites which were left in caves on the shore of an ice age lake, which is today Summer Lake in Oregon. The caves contain Western Stemmed projectile points, which are considered by archaeologists to be the oldest New World lithic technology. They are distinct from the Clovis points, and based on dating at the Paisley Caves, are believed to overlap or precede Clovis technology. The conditions in the caves are believed to be near-ideal for preservation, with extremely dry conditions sheltered from moisture. Deposits in the caves include threads of sinew and plant fibers, basketry, rope, and wooden pegs, as well as animal bones and feces.

Fossil Lake (2), Oregon (N43˚20’ W120˚30’), is one of the most significant sites for Pleistocene-age fossils, perhaps rivaling Rancho La Brea in Los Angeles. Martin et al. (2005) found that fossil deposits ranged in age from more than 646,000 years ago to 23,000 years ago.

The National Landscape Conservation Systemin the Harney Basin is represented by the Black Rock Desert and Steens Mountain areas; in addition, National Wilderness Preservation System areas are considered part of the NLCS and are described separately. Black Rock Desert-High Rock Canyon Emigrant Trails National Conservation Area (NCA), Nevada, is known mostly for the Burning Man Festival, held in the Black Rock Desert Playa. However, this 800,000-acre area preserves 120 miles of remnants of historic trails to California and Oregon. From Rye Patch Reservoir on the east, the Applegate Trail extends west to Willow Springs, Antelope Pass, Kamma Pass, and Rabbithole Spring, where the Nobles Trail heads southwest. The Applegate Trail continues west to Black Rock Springs, Double Hot Springs, Lassen/Clapper Burial Site, and Fly Canyon Wagon Slide to High Rock Canyon. Other features are the Hanging Rock Petrified Forest, site 3 on the map (N41˚30’ W119˚28’) and Soldier Meadows, located near High Rock Canyon. Soldier Meadows is a complex of hot springs harboring desert dace, four endemic springsnails, and basalt cinquefoil. The ten wilderness areas are Black Rock Desert, Calico Mountains, East Fork High Rock Canyon, High Rock Canyon, High Rock Lake, Little High Rock Canyon, North Black Rock Range, North Jackson Mountains, Pahute Peak, and South Jackson Mountains.

Steens Mountain Cooperative Management and Protection Area(CMPA), Oregon, is 496,000 acres, including Steens Mountain, the largest fault block north of the Great Basin rising one mile above the Alvord Desert to the east. The highest point of Steens Mountain, 9,700 feet (N42˚38’ W118˚35’) is accessible by a one-mile hike. The Donner und Blitzen River and all its tributaries in the Steens Mountain CMPA are designated Wild Rivers, for a total of 87.5 miles. In addition, Kiger and Wildhorse Creeks and their tributaries add another 14 river miles of Wild Rivers. There are four immense glacier-carved U-shaped gorges along Kiger Creek, Little Blitzen, Big Indian, and Wildhorse creeks, all of which have been designated wild rivers. A distinctive notch (site 4) in the east ridge of Kiger Gorge (N42˚44’ W118˚33’) is from a tributary glacier along Mann Creek Canyon. The area is an IBA for black rosy-finch and sage grouse. The Kiger Wild Horse Management Area (site 5) (N42˚57’ W118˚36’) is the home of 50 to 80 horses descended from the original Spanish horses brought to North America. The Blitzen River Trail extends from Page Campground upstream to Fish Creek and is part of the Desert Trail. Big Indian Gorge Trail and Little Blitzen Gorge Trails both extend eight miles from the South Steens Campground to the heads of glaciated valleys. A trail to Wildhorse Lake (N42˚38’ W118˚35’)starts at the road to Steens Mountain high point off of Steens South Loop Road. The Riddle Brothers Ranch (N42˚41’ W118˚46’) is on the Little Blitzen River and preserves rural Oregon ranch life as it was in the early 1900s. About 170,000 acres of the NCA is also included in the Steens Mountain Wilderness Area.