Saturday, December 1, 2012

Karri, Jarrah, and Mallee

Some of world's tallest trees, a wildflower paradise, and the rabbit-proof fence

I. Map boundaries: 30 to 40 degrees South; 110 to 120 degrees East

II. Country (Provinces--Regions): Australia (Western Australia—Goldfields-Esperance, Great Southern, MidWest, Peel, South West, and Wheat Belt economic development regions; local government areas surrounding Perth).

III. Overview
This map area includes all of the Great Southern, Peel, and South West economic development regions, most of the Wheat Belt region, and parts of the Esperance-Goldfields and Mid West regions. Perth and its surrounding local government areas are also included. All of the area is Mediterranean in climate, with winter rains heavy enough to support forests in the southwest. The rains gradually decrease to the inland and northeast, supporting woodlands and savannah. Along the southwest coast is the karri forest (ecoregion AA 1204), made up of tall evergreen eucalyptus trees. Inland is the jarrah forest (1210), also a tree-sized eucalyptus species, and further inland the vegetation grades to a savannah-like eucalyptus and melaleuca shrub area. The Southwest Australia savanna ecoregion (1209) is a wildflower viewing region. Showy flowers of the Proteaceae plant family are common. The region is characterized by winter rains, which create carpets of wildflower displays. The mallee vegetation (1202) is characterized by shrubs with a lignotuber, a storage root that is adapted to sprouting after a fire. To the northeast of the mallee and savannah areas is the eucalypt-mulga line, the boundary between eucalyptus-dominated vegetation and acacia-dominated desert vegetation. The Coolgardie woodlands (ecoregion 1201) of the northeastern Wheat Belt is this transitional desert area.

In the early 1900s, the Western Australia government made a concerted effort to allocate large sections of this area east of Perth for farming. The result was the vast ‘wheatbelt’ region that dominates the center of the map. However, these allocations were mostly made west of the rabbit-proof fence. In 1983, land allocations were discontinued, leaving a contrast visible on maps between the cultivated area and vast Mediterranean woodlands to the east (Watson et al. 2008). The rabbit-proof fence itself was conceived as a 2,000-mile coast-to-coast barrier to rabbits, which were overrunning Australia and moving west in the early 1900s. The fence did not serve as a barrier to rabbits, who were found west of the fence shortly after it was completed. Two other barriers were built, one further to the west and another to the north, but they failed to contain rabbits. The rabbit population was later stabilized by diseases. However, the fence did prevent kangaroos and emus from causing crop damage. The fence itself has become famous in studies of global climate change. Following the extensive clearing for agriculture, rainfall over the cultivated areas decreased. However, clouds continue to form to the east of the fence in a noticeable line. From a meteorological standpoint, this is thought to be due to the heterogeneous nature of the native woodland. Forests are taller than crops and tend to change wind speeds in ways that encourage cloud formation, it is hypothesized (http://honeybeesandhelium.com/2012/07/13/the-bunny-fence/).

To the west of the rabbit-proof fence is the Wheatbelt, created by the availability of water from the Goldfields Water Supply Scheme (Golden Pipeline). This historic civil engineering landmark and national heritage site transfers water from the Mundaring Weir eastward to the Wheatbelt. The original 560-km-long aboveground structure was completed in 1903 as the first major steel pipeline in the world. It extends from Mundaring Weir near Perth to Kalgoorlie to the east of the map area. Various sites along the pipeline contain museums and interpretive sites, and a bicycle trail follows the pipeline from Mundaring Weir to Northam through the jarrah forest area. Two other long-distance trails are of note in the map area. The Bibbulmun track is a long-distance walking path from Kalamunda to Albany, a distance of 963 km traversing the jarrah and karri forest regions. The Munda Biddi bicycle trail extends 1,000 km from Mundaring to Albany along a similar, but not the same, route as the Bibbulmun track. Munda Biddi is the longest off-road bicycle trail in the world.

IV. Terrestrial Ecoregions
For a detailed listing of sites in each ecoregion, keyed by number to the map, please see the webpage for Karri, Jarrah, and Mallee at https://sites.google.com/site/enviroramble/

A. Coolgardie woodlands (AA1201). This arid area in the northeast of the map area is transitional to desert and supports mallee scrub. Soils are low in nutrients and high in salinity. Low-lying heath shrubs of Eremophila are characteristic. This ecoregion is mostly east of the rabbit-proof fence and contains a predominance of native vegetation. It is considered a biodiversity hotspot. This ecoregion includes parts of the Wheatbelt and Esperance-Goldfields economic development regions
B. Esperance mallee (AA1202). East of Albany is a plain with granitic and quartz outcrops which supports shrubby vegetation of mallee and proteaceous scrub. The rabbit-proof fence runs northwest to southeast through this ecoregion, separating a more heavily cultivated area to the west from the great western woodlands to the east. This ecoregion is found in the Esperance-Goldfields, Great Southern, and Wheat Belt economic development regions.  Sites in this ecoregion include the Fitzgerald River Biosphere Reserve.
Fitzgerald River National Park (NP) is located in the Esperance-Goldfields and Great Southern economic development regions (2). This 329,000-acre area consists of a chain of isolated peaks called the Barren Range, an upland plain, a marine plain, and rugged coastal cliffs. The major habitat is mallee heath of Eucalyptus tetragonia and Banksia species. The park is an IBA for Carnaby’s black cockatoo, western bristlebird, malleefowl, western whipbird, and western ground parrot. The park has the largest number of animal species of any area in Western Australia, along with 1,800 plant species, 62 of which are endemic. The major visitor site is Point Ann.
C. Jarrah-Karri forest and shrublands (AA1204). This is the forest of wetter areas of southwestern Australia and is found on a narrow belt along the coast from Albany west to Margaret River. The wettest forest is of karri, or Eucalyptus diversicolor, which is an evergreen and the third tallest tree in the world, growing to 90 m. Karri trees live 350 years. Flowering karri trees attract purple-crowned lorikeets to feed on nectar. As rainfall and nutrients decrease inland, jarrah forests (Eucalyptus marginata) and marri forests (Eucalyptus calophylla) are found. The flora and fauna is highly endemic. There are endemic pitcher plants, frogs, worms, and crayfish. This ecoregion is found in the coastal areas of the Great Southern and South West economic development regions.  The Karri Forest Explorer Drive near Pemberton, South West region, highlights tall karri trees (up to 90 m) and passes by Beedelup NP,Big Brook Forest, Gloucester NP, and Warren NP. The westernmost karri forest is in Leeuwin-Naturaliste NP.
D. Swan Coastal Plain (AA1205). Found along the west coast from north of Perth to Cape Naturaliste, this area has diverse vegetation of Kwongan scrub, mallee, and heath. Tuart forests (Eucalyptus gomphocephala) grow south of Perth. Up to three fourths of the world’s carnivorous sundew species are found in this ecoregion. Some wildflowers are pollinated by possums. This ecoregion is found in the Mid West, Peel, South West, and Wheat Belt economic development regions and includes the local government areas around Perth.  There is a world heritage site and four Ramsar sites in this ecoregion.

Australian Convict Sites World Heritage site is in the Freemantle local government area (28). This area on the Swan River downstream from Perth memorializes the last of the original convict prisons to close. About 166,000 people were sent to Australia from 1787 to 1868. Of this, 10,000 were sent to the Swan River Colony in today’s Western Australia. These convicts worked on public infrastructure, agriculture, and mining. The prison consists of a complex of limestone buildings within a six-meter-high limestone perimeter wall. On site are 17 intact convict-built structures.
Becher Point Wetlands Ramsar site is in the Rockingham local government area (29). This system of wetlands and dunes supports sedgelands separated by sand ridges. Sedgelands are dominated by Baumea species.
Forestdale and Thomsons Lakes Ramsar site is in the Armandale and Kwinana Local Government Areas (28). These lakes are the best remaining examples of brackish seasonal lakes with fringing sedges in the Swan Coastal Plain and support 20,000 ducks and the Australasian bittern. Thomsons Lake is one of 19 lakes in Beeliar Regional Park.
Peel-Yalgorup System Ramsar site, found in the Peel and South West regions (30), supports shallow estuaries and lakes with 86 species of water birds, including thousands of shorebirds. The area is known for samphire vegetation of sedges fringed by low trees of Melaleuca. In the water are thrombolites, similar to stratomalites, formed by cyanobacteria and sediments. It includes Yalgorup NP, Peel Inlet, Harvey Estuary, Lake McLarty, Lake Mealup, and Erskine Conservation Park. Yalgorup NP extends from the Peel-Harvey estuary south to Harvey and includes a chain of ten lakes. Lake Clifton within the park is known for thrombolites, microorganism-derived structures similar to stromatolites. The NP is an IBA for the fairy tern, hooded plover, and Australian shelduck. Mammals include the chuditch, southern brown bandicoot, and western ringtail possum. The Peel-Harvey Estuary is an IBA for the fairy tern, blue-billed duck, and red-necked stint. Lake McLarty Nature Reserve is an IBA for red-necked stint, sharp-tailed sandpiper, and black-winged stilt.
The Vasse-Wonnerup System Ramsar site, South West region (31), is an extensive shallow wetland system supporting a breeding colony of black swan. It includes Tuart Forest NP and Vasse-Wonnerup Conservation Park.
E. Southwest Australia savanna (AA1209). Widely spaced eucalyptus savanna merges into acacia (wattle) as it moves inland toward sandplains. The northern portions of this ecoregion are famous for wildflowers including Banksia, kangaroo paws (Anigozanthos), Grevillea, and orchids. This is known as the Kwongan heaths. Nectar feeders such as possums and wallabies are part of the mammal fauna. Today much of the center of this ecoregion is a vast wheat-growing area, at least to the west of the rabbit-proof fence. However, the northern portions have extensive areas of native vegetation with heath and mallee vegetation. This ecoregion is found in the Mid West, Great Southern, and Wheat Belt economic development regions. There is one Ramsar site.

The Toolibin Lake Nature Reserve Ramsar site, Wheat Belt region (47), contains a large Casuarina obesa-dominated wetland supporting waterbirds such as freckled duck, cormorants, egrets, and night herons. This area is at the headwaters of the Arthur River. Mounds in the lake floor support trees. There are 25 species of breeding water birds.

F. Southwest Australia Woodlands (AA1210). Jarrah is dominant in the Darling range, but inland is wandoo (Eucalyptus capillosa and powderbark (E. accedens). Another eucalyptus is the marri tree. Marri trees attract silvereyes and honeyeaters to feed on the nectar. This ecoregion is found in the Great Southern, South West, and Wheatbelt economic development regions and includes local government areas on the east side of Perth. There is one Ramsar site.

The Muir-Byenup System Ramsar site, Great Southern and South West region (59), is an interconnected swamp with the largest natural sedge land in Western Australia and is an IBA, supporting 51,000 water birds, including Australian shelduck and Australasian bittern. It is also known for its orchid flora.
V. Freshwater Ecoregions of the World

Australia and Pacific Region
Temperate Coastal Rivers
801. Southwestern Australia. Stretching along the entire coastline in this map area but only extending a short distance inland, this ecoregion includes the perennial streams from the Arrowsmith River(north of the map area) to Fitzgerald River National Park at the eastern map boundary. Major rivers from north to south and west to east on the map are:

  • Hill River, draining the northern Swan coastal plain
  • Moore River, draining areas north ofPerth
  • Swan River, draining much of the Wheatbelt before entering the sea atPerth
  • Serpentine River
  • Murray River
  • Margaret River, the center of a wine region
  • Blackwood River, draining the Toolibin Lake Ramsar site
  • Warren River
  • Frankland River
  • Kalgan River
  • Pallinup River
  • Gairdner River
  • Phillips River (ephemeral)
There are 15 fishes in eight families, and there is an endemic family, the salamanderfish family, in the aquatic fauna. More permanent rivers lead to a diverse fish fauna of Galaxiidae, perches, and eel-tailed catfish (Plotosidae) familes. There are also endemic turtles and crayfishes.
Xeric Freshwaters and Closed Basins
804. Paleo. This area has isolated saline lakes but no permanent, fish-inhabited waterways and includes inland portions of the Mid West, Wheatbelt, and Esperance-Goldfields regions.
VI. Marine Ecoregions of the World

Temperate Australia Realm,Southwest Australian Shelf Province
209. Leeuwin. Found south of Perth and along the south coast of Australia. Sites exemplifying this ecoregion are:
Eclipse Island Nature Reserve, Great Southern Region (16). This island is an IBA for flesh-footed shearwater, great-winged petrel, and little penguin.
Ngari Capes Marine Park (77). Located offshore of Leeuwin-Naturaliste NP, this area includes part of Geographe Bay and Flinders Bay. Exposed headlands and boulder fields plunge to the sea, which has offshore kelp-covered reefs. Sea lions and whales may be viewed. The leafy seadragon, a protected species, is found in the area. The Hamelin Bay Wreck trail passes five shipwrecks.
Rottnest Island, Rottnest Island Authority, off of Perth(46). This 11-km-long island is most known for the globally threatened mammal, the quokka. It also contains six permanent salt lakes and is an IBA for fairy tern, banded stilt, and wedge-tailed shearwater. Offshore the island is a notable area for watching whales and dolphins and for snorkeling.
Shoalwater Islands Marine Park, Rockingham local government area (44). Penguin Island Conservation Park supports a breeding colony of little penguins. It is accessible by ferry and includes walking trails. Other limestone islands support seabird breeding. Offshore are dolphins and sea lions.
Swan Estuary Marine Park, Perth (28). Mudflats, seagrass beds, sedges, and saltmarsh support migratory wading birds, including the red-necked stint.
Walpole and Nornalup Inlets Marine Park, South West Region (24). The two inlets are encircled by Walpole-Nornalup NP and support 50 species of marine fish. The inlets can be viewed from the Bibbulmun Track and are known for canoeing.
Temperate Australia Realm, West Central Australian Shelf Province
211. Houtman. Found from Perth northward to Shark Bay. The following sites exemplify this ecoregion:
Carnac Island Nature Reserve, Fremantle (34). Between Garden and Rottnest Islands, this is a haulout area for sea lions.
Jurien Bay Marine Park, offshore of MidWest and Wheatbelt regions (78). The marine waters offshore fromWedge Island north to Green Head are part of this reserve on the Turquoise Coast. The reserve is offshore of the Namburg (23) and LeSeuer (16) National Parks. Offshore reefs create sheltered lagoons which contain extensive seagrass beds. The area is viewed as temperate and there are no coral reefs. There are about 15 groups of offshore islands within the reserve that provide breeding areas for sea lions and seabirds.
Marmion Marine Park, offshore of Wannaroo (79). Extending fromTrigg Island to Burns Beach, this park provides diving areas including offshore rocks, ledges, and caves. Seabirds on offshore rocks, marine mammals, and whales are present.
VII. References

Abell, Robin and 27 others. 2008. Freshwater Ecoregions of the World: A New Map of Biogeographic Units for Freshwater Biodiversity Conservation. Bioscience 58:403-414.
Australian Heritage Database. www.environment.gov.au/heritage (accessed July 2, 2011).
BirdLife International. 2012. IBA Factsheets. Downloaded from http://www.birdlife.org on 9 September 2012.
Birds Australia. http://www.birdata.com.au/iba.vm (accessed 7/2/11)
Gibbons, Bob. 2011. Wildflower Wonders: The 50 Best Wildflower Sites in the World. Princeton University Press and New Holland Publishers.
Olson, David M., et al., 2001. Terrestrial Ecoregions of the World: A New Map of Life on Earth. BioScience 51:933-938.
Spalding, Mark D. and 14 others. 2007. Marine Ecoregions of the World: A Bioregionalization of Coastal and Shelf Areas. Bioscience 57:573-583.
Tourism Western Australia. www.westernaustralia.com (accessed 7/2/2011)
Watson, Alexander, Simon Judd, James Watson, Anya Lam, and David Mackenzie. 2008. The Extraordinary Nature of the Great Western Woodlands. The Wilderness Society of Western Australia..
Western Australia Department of Environment and Conservation. Park Finder. http://www.dec.wa.gov.au/ (accessed 7/2/11).
World Heritage List. http://whc.unesco.org/ (accessed 7/2/2011).

Saturday, September 1, 2012

Sonoran Desert, Part I

Columnar cacti, renewable energy, and squirrels
I. Map boundaries: 30 to 35 degrees North; 110 to 117 degrees West
II. Country (State): Mexico (Baja California, Sonora), United States (Arizona, California).
III. Overview
This entry focuses on the Sonoran Desert north of 30 degrees latitude and the Chihuahuan Desert west of 110 degrees longitude. The sky islands of the Sierra Madre Occidental, which poke above the Chihuahuan Desert, are also discussed, as is the northernmost Baja California Desert as it grades into Mediterranean California. Because of the two US States and three Mexican states (Baja California, Sonora, and Sinaloa) involved in the Sonoran Desert, the Sonoran Joint Venture has been established to coordinate and direct bird conservation funds toward the highest priority needs in the area. At the Yuma Crossing area where four of the states come together, the project seeks to recreate habitat for the southwestern willow flycatcher and the Yuma clapper rail by restoring marshes, removing tamarisk and other invasive plants, and revegetation of the area. These activities are taking place both north of the border and south in Santa Clara marsh in Sonora and Baja California (Cohn 2005).
The Sonoran Desert is usually noted as being unusually lush in vegetation for a desert. There are cacti and other succulent plants that focus on water storage. Those that do not store water complete their life cycle quickly after rains and before the next drought begins. The lush plant growth may be because the area has alternated among different states including a tropical dry forest, savanna, chaparral, and thorn forest before becoming the desert of today. The ancestors of the desert plants lived in cooler and moister climates, and their descendants adapted to increasingly drier conditions over an 80 million year period (Mohlenbrock 1986).
In addition to the saguaro, the Sonoran Desert hosts the unique elephant tree (Bursera microphylla), which has a population centered on the Barry M. Goldwater Air Force Range of southwestern Arizona. The tree provides food for the gray vireo in its wintering areas in the Sonoran Desert. The gray vireo is a rare bird of the southwestern arid lands. The beak of the vireo opens just wide enough to eat elephant tree fruits. In fact, it appears that the bird’s winter distribution matches the distribution of the elephant tree. Some of the important winter habitat for the vireo is located on the Goldwater Air Force Range property in southwestern Arizona (Arnett 2011).
By the 1890s, the new Euro-American settlements of southeastern Arizona were already overgrazed and a severe drought was in progress. As many as 50 to 75 percent of all cattle had died. This crisis led to scientific research on how many cattle the grasslands of the northwestern Chihuahuan Desert could sustain. As more and more is known, the carrying capacity has been reduced. The 50,000-acre site was originally believed suitable for up to 1,200 cattle, but today the number is 600 to 700. Sustainability is maintained by breaking the site into pastures, and cattle are rotated based on the health of the pasture. This research area, where cattle were fenced out and the carrying capacity of the desert range was established, is today the Santa Rita Experimental Range. Today, Santa Rita is part of the National Ecological Observatory Network which seeks to study the impacts of long-term climate change.
Nearby and to the east is another research site, the Walnut Gulch Experimental Watershed, which includes the town of Tombstone. The focus of research here is hydrology, including he effects of upland conservation efforts on downstream water supply. Also located in the grasslands of the Chihuahuan Desert, the research watershed is geared to determining the best ways to “stop the water where it falls.”
The Sonoran Desert is also a focus of renewable energy development. The EnergySource geothermal plant went on-line in 2012 adjacent to the Salton Sea. It obtains power from the Salton Sea geothermal resource area, which has a resource potential of up to 2,000 MW, of which 330 is developed. Geothermal development relies on deep wells to tap hot water; those at EnergySource extend 7,500 feet deep. The briny liquid extracted from the wells is returned via injection wells. The advantage of geothermal is that it can be run as baseload power while other renewables tend to be more intermittent (Trabish 2012).
To the west of Blythe along I-10 and adjacent to the Palen-McCoy Wilderness is the site for the Genesis Solar Power Project, a 250-MW development using parabolic trough technology to concentrate sunlight and generate electricity. In 2010, the project received BLM approvals for construction and a Department of Energy loan guarantee. During the review, the project was found to include several archaeologically important cultural landscapes. The approval required that Genesis document three cultural landscapes prior to construction. One was a Prehistoric Quarries Archaeological District and another was a Prehistoric Trails Network archaeological landscape. A third landscape was historic-period archaeological sites that contribute to a World War II Desert-Training Center California-Arizona Maneuver Area Historic Landscape. However, human remains have also been found along a transmission line connection to the site. Although the Programmatic Agreement for the project contained measures for the handling of human remains, these and two other human finds have prompted concerns from the Colorado River Indian Tribes that the previous archaeological surveys of the area were not comprehensive (BLM 2010; Sahagun 2012). As if to reinforce the cultural resource criticisms of the project, a rare flood in the summer of 2012 caused some roads to be washed out and some equipment to be damaged.
One of the most famous and long-running battles in environmental history, alongside the snail darter and spotted owl, is the battle over a mountain and the siting of an astronomical observatory in the middle of a mountaintop forest which is the sole habitat for the Mount Graham red squirrel. The Pinaleno Mountain range already had a road to the top and some development of vacation cabins. Therefore, it was initially not viewed as pristine when it was proposed for an astronomical observatory. However, biological studies indicated the mountain had been an isolated sky island for some 11,000 years, and new species of insects were found. The most critical species was the Mount Graham red squirrel, whose numbers were estimated as only 300 (Waldrop 1990). The observatory was eventually built and today houses three telescopes. However, the controversy is not over, and suits seeking to protect the squirrels under the Endangered Species Act continue.
IV. Terrestrial Ecoregions
For a detailed listing of sites within each ecoregion, keyed to the map, please see the webpages for the Sonoran desert at https://sites.google.com/site/enviroramble/.

Ecoregions of the Neararctic Biome
Tropical & Subtropical Coniferous Forests
NA 302, Sierra Madre Occidental pine-oak forests. These forests occur as isolated sky islands on mountain peaks between 1,500 and 3,300 m in elevation. Drier areas have chaparral and oak-grassland vegetation. The region is known for endemic birds such as the thick-billed parrot, tufted jay, eared quetzal, and green-striped brush finch; 22 endemic reptiles; and 12 endemic amphibians. The mountain air currents are a major migratory pathway for the monarch butterfly. Found in Arizona and Sonora.
Deserts & Xeric Shrublands
NA 1301, Baja California desert. The mountains, plains, and dunes host xeric scrub of cacti, Ambrosia, and Erodium. In low humid areas epiphytes are present. Endemic mammals include the San Quintin kangaroo rat and Baja California rock squirrel. Found on the western side of the Baja California peninsula in Baja California.
NA 1303, Chihuahuan desert. This isolated desert and grassland is known for prairie dog, bison, and antelope. The dominant plant is creosote bush, along with tarbush and acacia. There are up to 1,000 endemic plant species, including one-fifth of the world’s cacti. Found in deep valleys reaching into the mountains of eastern Sonora and southeastern Arizona.
NA 1310, Sonoran Desert. The desert most famous for the saguaro cactus and other columnar cacti also contains creosote bush, ironwood, palo verde and other cacti in drier areas. Found in Arizona, Baja California, California, and Sonora.
V. Freshwater Ecoregions
Xeric Freshwaters and Closed Basins
130, Colorado, includes the lower Colorado River and the Bill Williams River in the Sonoran Desert of Baja California, California, and Arizona. There are distinctive fishes adapted to turbid, fast-flowing waters and a high level of endemism in the fish fauna.
131, Gila, is a Colorado River tributary in Arizona and is separately delineated from the Colorado ecoregion because 20 percent of the aquatic species are endemic. The river is noted for speciation in chubs.
159, Southern California Coastal-Baja California, contains few permanent watercourses. Streams contain a marine-derived fish fauna including killifish, lamprey, and sculpin.
160, Sonora, includes rivers in Sonora including the Rio Sonoyta and Concepcion in the map area. The ecoregion has endemic Opata sucker and desert chub.
VI. Marine Ecoregions
Temperate Northern Pacific Realm, Warm Temperate Northeast Pacific Province
59, Southern California Bight, is found along the Pacific Coast of terrestrial ecoregion NA1301.
60, Cortezian, is found in the Sea of Cortez adjoining Baja California and Sonora.
VII. World Heritage Sites
Islands and Protected Areas of the Gulf of California (IPAGC). This includes nine protected area units, two of which are within the map area. The two units shown on the map are:
  • Islands of the Gulf of California Flora and Fauna Reserve (IGCFFR), Baja California and Sonora (site 1 on map). This includes 232 islands, nine of which fall within the map area. These are Cholludo, Gore, El Huerfanito, Lobos, Montague, El Muerto, El Pelicano, San Jorge, and San Luis. Gore, Montague, and Pelicano are also in the Upper Gulf of California Biosphere Reserve. The Gulf of California is a high salinity, shallow gulf. The islands are listed because of striking natural beauty, 90 endemic fish species, 39 percent of the world’s marine mammal species, and one third of the world’s cetacean species. An endemic fish, totoaba, and an dolphin, cochito, are found in the shallow Upper Gulf of California. Terrestrial ecoregion NA 1310; marine ecoregion 60.
  • Upper Gulf of California and Colorado Delta Biosphere Reserve, Baja California and Sonora (2). The three mouths of the Colorado River and the swamp of La Ramada support 100,000 shorebirds annually. In the Colorado delta, the Santa Clara Marshland offers guided tours from Ejido Luis E. Johnson. The reserve includes the former outlet of the Colorado River and is also a Ramsar Site, biosphere reserve, WHSRN site, and an Important Bird Area (IBA) of BirdLife International. Terrestrial ecoregion NA1310; marine ecoregion 60.
VIII. Man and the Biosphere Reserves
Gulf of California Islands (1), Sonora. See World Heritage list above.
Mojave and Colorado Desert, California. A multi-unit biosphere reserve including Death Valley National Park, Joshua Tree National Park, Santa Rosa and San Jacinto Mountains National Monument, Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, and Philip L. Boyd Deep Canyon Desert Research Center in Palm Desert, California. Each of these sites is described in a separate entry below except for Death Valley, which is described in the Mojave Desert ecosystem post. Ecoregion NA1308 and NA1310.
Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument, Arizona (3). The monument preserves the range of organ pipe cactus in the U.S., along with 550 other species of plants, including a diversity of other cacti and Sonoran desert plants and animals. The pollinator of organ pipe cactus, the lesser long-nosed bat, is an endangered species. The Senita Basin has a diversity of cactus and elephant trees. The Ajo Mountain and Puerto Blanco roads provide access to a range of desert topography and vegetation. Organ Pipe Cactus is a unit of the Sonoran Desert Borderlands IBA and is noted for pygmy owl. Ecoregion NA1310.
El Pinacate and Altar Desert Biosphere Reserve, Sonora (4). The biosphere reserve designation for the Upper Gulf of California and Colorado Delta Biosphere Reserve (see description under World Heritage Sites in Section VII) includes El Pinacate and Altar Desert Biosphere Reserve in Sonora. The Pinacate is a 600-square-mile volcanic area on the east side of the Altar Desert. The area of cones, craters, and lava flows was formed about 50,000 years ago. The highest peak is 3,960 feet. There are over 400 volcanic cinder cones, some of which were formed by steam explosion when lava contacted ground water. The largest crater is El Elegante, 700 feet deep and 1,500 feet across. Molina Crater looks like a clover leaf on the map and is the intersection of three circular craters. Saguaro and ocotillo grow in some of the crater floors. The Altar Desert contains the largest active dune field in North America. It is noted for unusual star dunes. The two unusual types are crescent and star dunes. Vegetation of the reserve is predominantly cholla and mesquite. Ecoregion NA1310.
IX. Ramsar Sites
Colorado Delta Wetlands, Baja California and Sonora (2). See Upper Gulf of California World Heritage Site.
San Quintin Lagoon Complex, Baja California (5). The site supports 35,000 shorebirds, including plovers, willet, curlew, and godwit, along with endemic plants in the genera Astragalus and Chorizanthe. A collapsed cave along the southern portion of the bay is La Lobera, which is a sea lion viewing area. San Quintin is also a BirdLife International IBA and unit in the Western Hemisphere Shorebird Reserve Network. Ecoregion NA1301.
X. Western Hemisphere Shorebird Reserve Network (WHSRN)
Colorado River Estuary, Baja California and Sonora, Mexico (6). See description under Upper Gulf of California and Colorado Delta world heritage site. Montague and Pelicano Islands are also part of the WHSRN site.
San Quintin Lagoon, Baja California (5). See description under Ramsar sites.
Sonny Bono Salton Sea National Wildlife Refuge (NWR), California (7). In addition to providing habitat for 100,000 ducks and geese, the refuge supports more than 20,000 shorebirds, including the Yuma clapper rail, laughing gull, wood stork, black tern. The largest breeding colony of double-crested cormorants is also in the area. The Salton Sea was formed in 1905 when a dike burst along the Colorado River. There is no outlet. The water level is rising from irrigation inflows, and is also getting saltier with time. The area is included in the Salton Sea and Imperial Valley IBAs. Ecoregion NA1310.
XI. National Ecological Observatory Network (NEON)
Santa Rita Experimental Range, Arizona (8). Established by the Forest Service in 1903 and now managed by the University of Arizona, the research site measured what would today be called the carrying capacity of rangeland. Researchers fenced out cattle and measured the regeneration of grassland. Now the 50,000-acre research site near Green Valley is part of the NEON network that will study long-term climate change over a 30-year period. Ecoregion NA1303.
XII. National Forest (NF) System
Coronado NF, Arizona. There are ten non-contiguous units shown on the map and listed below; two additional units (not described) are found in southeastern Arizona and New Mexico:
Dragoon Mountains (9) are notable for huge granite domes and canyons. The area is rich grasslands and grass-dominated woodlands. There are three rare mollusk species. Ecoregions NA302 and NA1303.
Galiuro Mountains (10) are an isolated range northeast of Tucson and northwest of Willcox. The mountains are known for precipitous topography and are included in the Galiuro Wilderness (see). Ecoregions NA302 and NA1303.
Huachuca Canelo, and Patagonia Mountains (11). This unit contains Ramsey Canyon, a National Natural Landmark, and six perennial streams. The Huachuca Mountains are an IBA for rare neotropical birds. Scotia Canyon, northwest of Miller Peak wilderness, is rich in sensitive species, especially reptiles, amphibians, and mollusks. Ecoregions NA302 and NA1303.
Pinaleno Mountains (12) are the tallest sky island in the US, rising to 10,720 feet at Mount Graham (just east of the map area). Ecoregion NA302 and NA1303.
Santa Catalina Mountains (13), located east of Tucson, contains the Sky Island Scenic Byway, which climbs from Sabino Canyon to Mount Lemmon through five life zones, the desert, grassland, pinyon-juniper, ponderosa pine, and alpine. Finger Rock Canyon is known for seven sensitive plants, and Agua Caliente Zoological Area is rich in reptiles and amphibians. Pusch Ridge and Rincon Mountain Wilderness areas (see) are located here. Ecoregions NA 302, NA1303, and NA1310.
Santa Rita Mountains (14) are located between Nogales and Tucson. Madera Canyon, east of I-19, is a birder’s paradise and the hummingbird capital of the U.S. The Santa Rita Mountains are also an IBA. Adjoining the Santa Ritas is another IBA, Tanque Verde Wash/Sabino Canyon. This area in the southern edge of the Santa Catalina Mountains is an IBA for Abert’s towhee. Onyx Cave National Natural Landmark (see) and Mount Wrightson Wilderness (see) are located here. The Santa Rita Experimental Range, located in the northwestern portion, was the first experimental range, established in 1903, and is currently managed by the University of Arizona. Ecoregions NA302 and NA1303.
Santa Teresa Mountains (15) are the northernmost unit of the sky islands, located adjacent to the San Carlos Apache Reservation. Rock formations, deep canyons, and steep terrain are characteristic. Chaparral dominates the Santa Teresa Wilderness (see). Ecoregions NA302 and NA1303.
Tumacacori, Atacosa, and Pajarita Mountains (16) are west of Nogales. The unit borders Buenos Aires NWR (see) and the mountain ranges extend south into Mexico, forming a continuous Madrean oak woodland. Sycamore Canyon, west of Nogales on the Mexican border, contains rare plants and animals for the U.S. including the jaguarondi. It is an IBA for high bird diversity and rare Mexican species. California Gulch, also west of Nogales, is an IBA for five-striped sparrow. Pajarita Wilderness (see) is located here. Ecoregions NA302 and NA1303.
Whetstone Mountains (17) is an isolated mountain which contains limestone and is known for caves on the east side of the range. Kartchner Caverns State Park (see) is located just east of the national forest property. French Joe Canyon provides riparian habitat for rufous-capped warbler. Ecoregions NA 302 and NA1303.
Winchester Mountains (18) are north of I-10 and west of Willcox, and are an isolated range of oak-pine woodlands. Ecoregion NA1303.
Prescott NF, Arizona (19). In the high desert are flowering yuccas, agaves, and cacti, whereas at higher elevations pinyon-juniper and oak grow. Included in the forest are Apache Creek, Castle Creek, Cedar Bench, Granite Mountain, Juniper Mesa, Pine Mountain, Sycamore Canyon, and Woodchute Wildernesses. Ecoregions NA503 and NA1310.
San Bernardino NF, California (20). The Rim of the World and Palms to Pines scenic byways provide access to the San Bernardino and San Jacinto Mountain ranges. The Santa Rosa and San Jacinto wildernesses are shared with the Santa Rosa and San Jacinto National Monument. Ecoregions NA 1201, 1203, 1308, and 1310.
Tonto NF, Arizona (21). The southern parts, such as the Superstitition Wilderness, are in the Sonoran Desert, with saguaros, cholla, and cacti, while in the north this grades to a ponderosa pine forest. The Mazatzal, Sierra Ancha, and Superstition wilderness areas are in the forest. Cave Creek downstream from Seven Springs north of Carefree is an IBA. The Verde River in the Mazatzal Wilderness downstream to the confluence with the Salt River, and the Salt River downstream from Saguaro Lake in this NF are an IBA for bald eagle, yellow-billed cuckoo, and southwestern willow flycatcher. Ecoregions NA503 and NA1310.
XIII. National Landscape Conservation System (wilderness areas are in a separate list below)
Agua Fria National Monument, Arizona (22). A high mesa area of desert grassland is located 40 miles north of Phoenix adjacent to I-17. The plateau is associated with a dormant volcano. The riparian areas along the Agua Fria River are an IBA. Ecoregion NA1310.
Las Cienegas National Conservation Area, Tucson BLM District, Arizona (23). Marshlands, cottonwood forests, oak woodlands, and grasslands are found on a working ranch. The historic ranch house dates to 1870 and is operated by the Empire Ranch Foundation. The southern edge is part of the Appleton-Whittell Research Ranch of the National Audubon Society (see). Ecoregions NA302 and NA1303.
Ironwood Forest National Monument, Arizona (24). The site contains vegetation typical of the Sonoran Desert. Dominant species are the saguaro cactus and trees of the legume family, including palo verde, acacia, ironwood, and mesquite (Mohlenbrock 2011). The monument includes parts of the Pan Quemado, Roskruge, Silver Bell, Ragged Top, Sawtooth, and Waterman Mountain ranges. Vegetation is about one half scattered saguaro and ironwood and one half creosotebush and bursage. There are small areas of jojoba chaparral on Silver Bell Peak and a cholla forest in the Pan Quemado Mountains. The Los Robles and Cocoraque Butte archaeological districts are included in the monument. Ecoregion NA1310.
Santa Rosa and San Jacinto National Monument, California (25). With elevations ranging from sea level to 10,000 feet, a diversity of natural landscapes are present, ranging from the desert to pinyon-juniper to limber and lodgepole pine. The San Jacinto Mountains rise almost 10,000 feet in seven horizontal miles. The mountains overlook the rapidly urbanizing Coachella Valley. Streams and seeps support palm oases. The San Jacinto Mountains are the northern end of the Peninsular Range, which extends south the length of Baja California. The monument includes the Agua Caliente Indian Reservation, Hidden Palms Ecological Reserve, Boyd, Phillip J., Deep Canyon Research Center (UC Riverside), Carrizo Canyon Ecological Reserve, the Living Desert (zoo and botanical garden), Magnesia Spring Ecological Reserve, Mount San Jacinto State Park and Wilderness, Palm Canyon Creek National Wild and Scenic River, Palm Springs Aerial Tramway, Peninsular Ranges Ecological Reserve, Santa Rosa Wilderness, and part of San Jacinto Wilderness. Ecoregions NA1310 and NA1201.
San Pedro Riparian National Conservation Area, Tucson BLM District, Arizona (26). One of the most important natural areas in the Southwest, the San Pedro River is lined with riparian vegetation within the Chihuahuan Desert. The NCA protects 40 miles of the river. It is one of the most important migratory bird corridors in the Southwest, along with the Rio Grande, Santa Cruz, and Colorado Rivers. It is an IBA because of this. It contains the Spanish Presidio Santa Cruz de Terrenante historic site and Murray Springs Clovis archaeological site. Ecoregion NA1303.
Sonoran Desert National Monument, BLM Lower Sonoran Field Office, Arizona (27). Mountain ranges (Javelina, Maricopa, Sand Tank, Table Top, and White Hills) punctuate an extensive saguaro cactus forest. The monument Includes the North and South Maricopa Mountain Wilderness Areas and Table Top Wilderness, which are all described in separate entries. Ecoregion NA1310.
XIV. National Natural Landmarks (NNL)
Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, California (28). The best examples of the biotic and geologic phenomena of the Colorado Desert (the California portion of the Sonoran Desert) are here. In wetter years, the spring wildflower display in February and March is notable, and composed of plants such as the desert sand verbena, dune evening primrose, desert chicory, and desert lily (Gibbons 2011). The Elephant Tree Forest, made of Bursera trees, is an IBA for gray vireo. Springs are found on the eastern side of the mountains, watering palm oases. The riparian areas of the park support groves of fan palm and are an IBA for least Bell’s vireo, long-eared owl, and Swainson’s hawk. Desert bighorn sheep are in the high areas. Major attractions are Borrego Palm Canyon, Tamarisk Grove and Yaqui Well, Mountain Palm Springs, and Blair Valley pictographs. Ecoregion NA1310.
Canelo Hills Cienega Reserve, The Nature Conservancy, Arizona (29). This wet desert grassland along O’Donnell Creek at 5,000 feet elevation is located at the town of Canelo on Route 83. The preserve protects one of four populations of the Canelo lady’s tresses orchid. It was designated because it is the least disturbed southwestern desert wet grassland habitat. Ecoregion 1303.
Imperial Sand Hills, BLM California Desert District, California (30). Dune heights reach 300 feet in one of the largest natural dune areas in the U.S., extending 40 miles in length by five miles in width between the Mexican border and the Chocolate Mountains. It is the most popular off-highway vehicle area in the U.S., also. Basins between the dunes contain some desert vegetation. This NNL includes the North Algodones Dunes Wilderness and is part of the Colorado Desert Microphyll woodlands IBA for long-eared owl, elf owl, and Gila woodpecker. Sensitive species include the Peirson’s milk vetch and desert tortoise. Ecoregion NA1310.
Onyx Cave, Coronado NF, Arizona (14). Considered the finest cave in Arizona, the one-half mile long cave is located in the Santa Rita Mountains to the east of Mount Wrightson in Gardner Canyon. 31-43, 110-47. Ecoregion NA302.
Patagonia-Sonoita Creek Sanctuary, The Nature Conservancy, Arizona (31). Sonoita Creek, lined with 100-year old Fremont cottonwoods and a riparian woodland, is among the top birding spots in the country, counting a diversity of flycatchers among its inhabitants. It is the only known US nesting spot of the rose-throated becard. The preserve is located one mile outside of Patagonia and is an IBA. Nearby to the south of Patagonia is the most famous (to birders) rest area in America, on Route 82, a birding hotspot for the rose-throated becard. Ecoregion NA1303.
Ramsey Canyon Preserve, The Nature Conservancy, Arizona (11). America’s first NNL, located in the Huachuca Mountains, has exceptional biological diversity, with 14 species of hummingbirds alone. This is the most species of hummingbirds to be found at one place in the U.S. It is adjacent to the Miller Peak Wilderness in the Coronado NF. Ecoregion NA302.
San Felipe Creek, BLM El Centro District, California (32). This is the last remaining natural desert stream in the Colorado Desert, also called the San Sebastian Marsh. Rare and endangered species include desert pupfish, Peninsular bighorn sheep, least Bell’s vireo, yellowbilled cuckoo, Southwestern willow flycatcher, unarmored three-spined stickleback, black rail, and arroyo toad. Additionally, there are many species of special concern, including yellow-breasted chat, yellow warbler, loggerhead shrike, Vaux’s swift, summer tanager, lowland leopard frog, California red-legged frog, and Orcutt’s aster. Ecoregion NA1310.
XV. National Park (NP) System of US and Mexico
Coronado National Memorial, Arizona (33). Located in the Huachuca Mountains, one of the sky islands, this park consists of canyons draining south into Montezuma Canyon, which is a tributary of the San Pedro River. A limestone cave is also found within the park. Hiking trails lead to the cave and through Montezuma Canyon. The Arizona National Scenic Trail (NST) begins at the Mexican border in the park. The memorial is part of the Huachuca Mountains IBA for rare neotropical species. Ecoregion NA302.
Joshua Tree National Park, California (site 34). Although known for the iconic yucca trees, this is also a rock climbing area. Rocks rise from the desert floor in squared columns and pillars. Major points of interest are Park Boulevard, with its rock formations, Ryan Mountain, Hidden Valley, the Wonderland of Rocks, Desert Queen Ranch, Cholla Cactus Garden, and Lost Palms Oasis. The southern parts of the park have cholla cactus and creosote bush as the area grades into the Sonoran Desert. The NP is part of the Mojave and Colorado Deserts biosphere reserve. Ecoregions NA1308 and NA1310.
Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument, Arizona (3). See description under Biosphere reserves. Ecoregion NA1310.
Saguaro National Park, Arizona (35). The western Tucson Mountain unit and eastern Rincon Mountain units are on each side of Tucson. The Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum is an outdoor education center adjacent to the park. The western unit is viewed from the nine-mile Bajada Loop Drive, providing access to the finest saguaro stands. The eastern unit rises from the Sonoran desert to desert grassland and peaks of ponderosa pine. Cactus Forest Drive provides access to the trail system. Ecoregion NA1310 and NA302.
Sierra de San Pedro Martir National Park, Baja California (36). This boulder-studded park contains conifer forest at higher elevations, grading into the Sonoran and Baja California deserts at lower elevations. It is a BirdLife International IBA. Ecoregions NA526, NA1201, NA1301, and NA1310.
Tumacacori National Historical Park, Arizona (37). This historical area is part of the Upper Santa Cruz River IBA for riparian birds, known for gray hawks and yellow-billed cuckoo. Ecoregion NA1303.
XVI. Federal Recreation Lakes
Alamo Lake, US Army Corps of Engineers (USACE), Arizona (38). Located on the Bill Williams River, this flood control lake is managed as an Arizona state park. Eagles and waterfowl may be seen. Ecoregion NA1310.
Camp Dyer Diversion Dam and Hank Raymond Lake, Bureau of Reclamation, Arizona (39). Located 35 miles northwest of Phoenix on the Agua Fria River, this facility provides water to the Maricopa Water District. Ecoregion NA1310.
Granite Reef Diversion Dam, Bureau of Reclamation, Arizona (40). Located four miles downstream of the confluence of the Salt and Verde Rivers and 22 miles east of Phoenix, this facility diverts water to irrigation canals. Ecoregion NA1310.
Imperial Dam and Desilting Works, Bureau of Reclamation, Arizona-California (41). Located 18 miles northeast of Yuma, this dam lifts water into the All-American and Coachella Canals of California and Gila canal of Arizona. Located on the reservoir are Imperial NWR, Mittry State Wildlife Area (AZ), and Picacho State Recreation Area (CA). The area is an IBA for Yuma clapper rail and California black rail. Ecoregion NA1310.
Laguna Diversion Dam and Mittry Lake Wildlife Area, Bureau of Reclamation, Arizona-California (41). The area located 13 miles northeast of Yuma between Laguna and Imperial Dams is managed for waterfowl. Ecoregion NA1310.
Mormon Flat Dam and Canyon Lake, Bureau of Reclamation, Arizona (42). Located 51 miles northeast of Phoenix, Canyon Lake is in the Tonto NF. Ecoregion NA1310.
New Waddell Dam and Lake Pleasant, Bureau of Reclamation, Arizona (43). This reservoir on the Agua Fria River stores Central Arizona Project water and river runoff. Ecoregion NA1310.
Parker Dam and Lake Havasu, Bureau of Reclamation, Arizona-California (44). Located below the mouth of the Bill Williams River, Parker Dam impounds Lake Havasu, the beginning point for the Colorado River Aqueduct to California and the Central Arizona Project Aqueduct to Phoenix and Tucson. Marshes at the upper end of Lake Havasu are managed as part of the Havasu NWR (see). Ecoregions NA1308 and NA1310.
Palo Verde Diversion Dam, Bureau of Reclamation, Arizona-California (45). This dam, located nine miles northeast of Blythe, provides water to the Palo Verde Mesa in California for irrigation. Ecoregion NA1310.
Stewart Mountain Dam and Saguaro Lake, Bureau of Reclamation, Arizona (46). Located 41 miles northeast of Phoenix, this dam stores Salt River water for irrigation. Reservoir recreation facilities are operated by the Tonto NF. Ecoregion NA1310.
XVII. National Trails System
Arizona National Scenic Trail, Arizona. Extending 800 miles from Mexico to Utah, the trail crosses the Vermillion Cliffs NM, Kaibab NF, Grand Canyon NP, Coconino NF, Tonto NF, Four Peaks Wilderness, Superstition Wilderness, Coronado NF, Oracle State Park, Saguaro NP, and Coronado National Memorial. Ecoregions NA302, 503, 1303, 1304, and 1310.
Black Canyon National Recreation Trail (NRT), BLM Phoenix District, Arizona (22). This 80-mile trail from State Route 74 west of New River to the Prescott NF east of Mayer follows a route historically used for sheep herding. Ecoregions NA503 and NA1310.
Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail, California. Extending 2,600 miles from Canada to Mexico, the trail passes through some of the most scenic areas in California. Coastal sage and chaparral lands that the trail passes through, from south to north, are Cleveland NF, Hauser Wilderness, San Bernardino NF, San Jacinto Wilderness, San Gorgonio Wilderness, Angeles NF, Sheep Mountain Wilderness, San Gabriel Wilderness, Kiavah Wilderness, Domeland Wilderness, and Sequoia NF. Ecoregions NA527, 1201, 1203, 1308, 1310.
Sixshooter Canyon NRT, Tonto NF, Arizona (47). From the Icehouse CCC Campsite south of Globe, this trail ascends six miles to Pinal Peak in a ponderosa pine forest. Ecoregion NA503 and NA1303.
XVIII. National Wild and Scenic River (WSR) System
Palm Canyon Creek, San Bernardino National Forest and Santa Rosa and San Jacinto National Monument, California (48). The nation’s largest fan palm oasis, bighorn sheep, and willow flycatcher are protected in the eight-mile WSR stretch. Ecoregion NA1310.

Sunday, August 5, 2012

Mojave Desert, Part II

Many of the 77 designated wilderness areas of the Mojave Desert provide desert tortoise habitat and contain large stands of Joshua trees. Other drier sites are mostly creosote bush and cholla cactus. A few, such as Golden Valley and Newberry Mountains, are known for spring wildflower displays. Those that reach above 7,000 feet, such as Kingston Range and Mount Tipton, support pinyon-juniper at the higher elevations. For the complete list of wilderness areas, national wildlife refuges, and state and local sites, please visit my website

Friday, July 6, 2012

Mojave Desert Part I

Ecoregion of the Nearactic Biome Number 1308 on map.

Extent of Mojave Desert: 33 to 38 degrees North; 113 to 119 degrees West
Country (State): United States (Arizona, California, Nevada, Utah).

I. Overview

Located adjacent to the crowded southern California Mediterranean ecosystems, the Mojave Desert is filled with military bases and is the site for new construction of renewable energy installations. It is also filled with recreation lands, including national parks and wilderness areas. It is not a barren desert, but is covered with typical vegetation of creosote bush, desert sage, and Joshua tree. Native wildflowers provide displays in the spring. Prior to the current renewable energy boom, the desert was home to mining operations in many areas. After these areas were abandoned in the early 20th century, the area was left alone and not grazed, providing a natural experiment in ecosystem recovery. As expected, soils that are severely disturbed and older soils take a long time to recover, and disturbances in these areas are essentially permanent, especially if the soil is compacted such as through use as a road. Younger soils such as those created from debris flows recover relatively fast and the vegetation returns within 80 to 100 years (Brown 2000a).

Soils in the Mojave Desert have been found to absorb carbon dioxide at night. The magnitude is as much as a temperate forest. If other deserts also exhibit this phenomenon, the effect could be huge, since 35 percent of the Earth’s land surface is desert or semiarid. However, these findings have not explained where the carbon is going. Some possibilities are to biotic crusts and expanded shrub cover. In addition, it is possible that it is an ephemeral effect, and the carbon could be released during the day, for example (Stone 2008). All of this indicates the many uncertainties in the understanding of the carbon cycle.

One native plant of the Mojave, Nicotiana attenuata, produces a floral nectar high in nicotine. It is pollinated by hawkmoths and hummingbirds. The combination of nicotine and floral scent does not make the plants more attractive to the pollinators, and in fact reduces the time a pollinator spends at each plant. However, this promotes the plant’s interest because pollinators visit more plants and thus pollinate more. In addition, nicotine deters caterpillars and carpenter bees, which would otherwise reduce reproductive success. Thus, the best strategy is to attract a pollinator but then prevent them from loitering (Raguso 2008).

Another plant in the Mojave, Linanthus parryae, tends to flower in blue and white patches across the landscape. For example, one side of a desert wash might be all blue while the other side might be all white. This is currently attributed to natural selection due to local environmental differences; however, in the past, it was attributed to genetic drift, where blue flower seeds happened to land in one place and spread (Pennisi 2007).

Characteristic of the Mojave are dry lakes in the valleys. In wetter years, these areas are briny, supporting microbes that can live in exceptionally high salinity. Most microbes live by reducing sulfur or carbon. However, at Searles Lake and the Trona Pinnacles National Natural Landmark in the northwestern Mojave, the brine is rich in the toxic element arsenic. Microbes have been found to use this element for biological processes in the briny sediments. Under aerobic conditions, arsenic III is oxidized. Under anaerobic conditions in deeper sediments, arsenic V is reduced. This takes the place of sulfate or carbonate reduction in other environments (Oremland et al. 2005).

At the Coso Mountains Wilderness, the Mojave Desert includes a group of volcanoes that last erupted more than 10,000 years ago but overlie large magma chambers. These volcanoes are considered potentially dangerous, but not as immediate a threat as the cascade volcanoes further north (Kerr 1983). Outside of volcanic areas, the desert has been relatively stable and sites such as Devils Hole,Nevada, have precipitated calcium carbonate for the last 500,000 years. There are no apparent depositional hiatuses. This can provide a unique climate record spanning several glacial cycles during the Pleistocene. Evidence from Devils Hole indicates that there are relatively rapid shifts from full-glacial to interglacial climates followed by a gradual return to full glacial conditions. Interglacial climates lasted about 20,000 years (Winograd et al. 1992).

In 1990, the desert tortoise was listed as a threatened species under the Endangered Species Act, causing virtually every project in theMojave Desertto consult with the US Fish and Wildlife Service prior to construction. From the beginning, there were disputes over population counts of the tortoises, which hibernate underground during droughts (Brown 2000b). In the Ivanpah Valley, California, in the Mojave Desert, an ideal site for generating solar power also turned out to be an ideal site for desert tortoises, which are an endangered species. Tortoises occur primarily on flats and alluvial fans adjacent to the mountains with soils ranging from sand to sandy-gravel, characterized by scattered shrubs and abundant interspace for growth of herbaceous plants. They occur in creosote bush, alkali sink, and tree yucca (Joshua tree) areas, places that are also ideal for new renewable power plant sites. Desert washes and other areas with deep soil provide sites for the tortoises to burrow and escape the desert heat. The 3,572-acre Ivanpah site, located on federal land to the east of Mojave National Preserve and to the south of Stateline Wilderness Area, was the subject of a Final Environmental Impact Statement (EIS) issued in August 2010. During the EIS process, the expected power output of the project was reduced ten percent due to a redesign that reduced the project footprint by 12 percent and the number of 460-foot power towers from seven to three. A Biological Opinion was issued by the US Fish and Wildlife Service onOctober 1, 2010, and the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) issued its Record of Decision onOctober 7, 2010. A 30-year right-of-way grant was issued to BrightSource Energy.

Consistent with the Biological Opinion, BrightSource proceeded to fence the construction area and remove tortoises for relocation to a nearby site on BLM property. The tortoises were placed in an on-site quarantine area for disease testing. However, construction monitoring of perimeter fence installation around Units 2 and 3 in the winter and spring of 2011 indicated that these portions of the project might contain more desert tortoises than anticipated in the 2010 biological opinion. The BLM requested revised consultation. The revised biological opinion, dated June 10, 2011, reiterated the need to fence the construction area, collect tortoises, and relocate elsewhere. It also required the rearing of young turtles and turtles from eggs until they were a size of 120 mm in length and five years of post-release monitoring. The company was also required to fence I-15 in the translocation area to a standard that would exclude turtles. As compensation for the 3,572 acres of public land lost to the solar facility, the California Energy Commission required BrightSource to acquire and restore good quality desert tortoise habitat at a ratio of 2:1, and to take actions on that newly acquired property to improve habitat quality, which could include restoration of closed roads, tortoise exclusion fencing along I-15 and US 95 and around the towns of Nipton, California, and Primm, Nevada, and elimination of invasive plant species. An interest-bearing account was also established to bankroll a management fund for the new properties.

The project was anticipated to increase the number of common ravens, a potential tortoise predator, at the project site. Brightsource was also therefore required to contribute to a management fund to reduce the numbers of common ravens in the area.

Another Mojave Desert solar project with tortoises present is the K Road Power project, a 350-MW photovoltaic generating station proposed for the Moapa Band of Paiute Indian Reservation on I-15 in Nevada. This is the subject of an EIS completed onMarch 16, 2012. The K Road project would be located on 2,153 acres of reservation land. During an October 2010 desert tortoise survey, up to 103 turtles were estimated to occur on the area to be disturbed. Similar to the Ivanpah project, the March 7, 2012, Biological Opinion requires the tortoises to be relocated and all construction activity to be monitored by desert tortoise biologists. The project includes a 6,000-acre desert tortoise relocation area to the north of the I-15 and an additional 5,000 acres south of I-15 for desert tortoise relocation if needed. The EIS looked at the impacts of an alternative site on the same reservation, but this site was estimated to have the same or greater effects on the desert tortoise

But these projects are not all that is underway in the desert tortoise habitat. To date, 13 solar projects have been approved inCaliforniaandNevada, and more are under development. Another one on I-10 in California, the Palen project, is awaiting a decision by BLM. Under development on the reservation to the south of K Road Project is a concentrating solar project, Moapa Solar. Also to the south of K Road, another concentrating solar plant is under development on BLM land by BrightSource as the Apex North East Las Vegas project. Power line projects and pipeline projects will also likely have cumulative effects on the tortoise habitat.

Another long-running environmental battle in the Mojave Desert was over the siting of a low level radioactive waste facility. It was proposed to be located at Ward Valley, on I-40 west of Needles, in 1988. However, due to opposition by environmental and tribal groups, the state signed legislation in 2002 preventing the use of the Ward Valley for a nuclear waste facility.

FurtherReading

Brown, Kathryn. 2000a. Ghost Towns Tell Tales of Ecological Boom and Bust. Science 290:35-37.

Brown, Kathryn. 2000b. Ecologists Spar Over Population Counts of Threatened Desert Tortoise. Science 290:36.

Ivanpah Solar Electric: http://www.blm.gov/ca/st/en/prog/energy/fasttrack/ivanpahsolar/fedstatus.html

K Road Power: http://projects2.pirnie.com/MoapaSolar/index.cfm?fuseaction=FEIS

Kerr, Richard A. 1983. Volcanoes to Keep an Eye on. Science 221:634-635.

Mohlenbrock, Robert H. 1984. The Field Guide to U.S.National Forests. Congdon and Weed, Inc.

O’Gara, Geoffrey. 2000. Guide to America’s Outdoors: Far West. National Geographic Society,Washington,DC.

Oremland, Ronald S., Thomas R. Kulp, Jodi Switzer Blum, Shelley E. Hoeft, Shaun Baesman, Laurence G. Miller, and John F. Stolz. 2005. A Microbial Arsenic Cycle in a Salt-Saturated, Extreme Environment. Science 308:1305-1308.

Palen Solar Power: http://www.blm.gov/ca/st/en/prog/energy/fasttrack/palen/fedstatus.html

Pennisi, Elizabeth. 2007. Natural Selection, Not Chance, Paints the Desert Landscape. Science 318:376.

Raguso, Robert A. 2008. The “Invisible Hand” of Floral Chemistry. Science 321:1163-1164.

Stone, Richard. 2008. Have Researchers Discovered a Hidden Loop in the Carbon Cycle? Science 320:1409-1410.

UNESCO-Man and the Biosphere Reserves Directory. http://www.unesco.org/mabdb/br/brdir/directory/database.asp (accessed5/30/11).

White, Mel. 2000. Guide to America’s Outdoors: Southwest. National Geographic Society.

Winograd, Isaac J., Tyler B. Coplen, Jurate M. Landwehr, Alan C. Riggs, Kenneth R. Ludwig, Barney J. Szabo, Peter T. Kolesar, and Kinga M. Revesz. 1992. Continuous 500,000-Year Climate Record from Vein Calcite in Devils Hole, Nevada. Science 258:255-260.

World Heritage List. http://whc.unesco.org/en/list

Saturday, June 2, 2012

Colorado Plateau Shrublands and Arizona Mountain Forests, Part II

Dramatic escarpments characterize the public lands managed by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) and other agencies on the Colorado Plateau.  The San Rafael Swell in Utah rises 2,000 feet, as do the Grand Wash Cliffs on the western Colorado Plateau on the Nevada-Arizona border.  Fossil Creek, now a wild and scenic river, originally was part of a hydroelectric development that has now been decommissioned.  Designated wilderness areas preserve canyons to the south and west of Flagstaff, including Sycamore Canyon in a wilderness of the same name and West Fork Oak Creek (Red Rock-Secret Mountain Wilderness).  Also, volcanoes that are part of the San Francisco Peaks area such as Kendrick Mountain and Strawberry Crater, as well as Humphreys Peak itself, are included in wilderness areas.

XIV.  National Wild and Scenic River (WSR) System

Fossil Creek, Coconino and Tonto NFs, Arizona (location 46 on map). Located on the north side of the Mazatzal Wilderness and included in the Fossil Springs Wilderness, this area is the most diverse riparian area in Arizona. The 17-mile WSR segment originates in a series of artesian springs. Because the water is saturated with calcium carbonate, it forms travertine formations. Ecoregion NA503.

Verde River, Coconino, Prescott, and Tonto NFs, Cedar Bench and Mazatzal Wildernesses, Arizona (37). The largest perennial stream in Arizona flows through riparian deciduous forest and supports five native fish. Surrounding vegetation is grassland, conifers, chaparral and Sonoran scrub. The 40-mile section downstream from Camp Verde and Horseshoe Reservoir is the designated section and contains bluffs and canyons. Ecoregion NA503.

Virgin River, Zion NP and BLM Lands, Utah (35). This designation includes 36 designated stream reaches, all of which flow through Zion NP. Ecoregion NA1304. Streams in the wild and scenic river system are:

  • Taylor Creek, located east of I-15 in the Kolob Section of Zion NP, draining the Hurricane Cliffs
  • North Fork Taylor Creek, ditto
  • Middle Fork Taylor Creek, located in Zion NP and BLM lands; the Taylor Creek Trail provides access
  • South Fork Taylor Creek, dlocated in Zion NP and BLM lands
  • Timber Creek, a right bank tributary of La Verkin Creek in the Kolob Section of Zion NP east of I-15; the La Verkin Creek Trail provides access
  • La Verkin Creek in Zion NP and BLM lands to the north and south of the park
  • Willis Creek, a left bank tributary of La Verkin Creek in the Kolob Section of Zion NP; the La Verkin Creek Trail provides access
  • Beartrap Canyon, ditto
  • Hop Valley Creek, a left bank tributary of La Verkin Creek in the Kolob Section of Zion NP
  • Currant Creek, a left bank tributary of La Verkin Creek in the Kolob Section of Zion NP
  • Cane Creek, a left bank tributary of Currant Creek in the Kolob Section of Zion NP
  • Smith Creek, a left bank tributary of La Verkin Creek on BLM lands
  • North Creek and its left and right forks, Zion NP
  • Wildcat Canyon (Blue Creek), a right bank tributary of the Left Fork North Creek in Zion NP
  • Little Creek, a right bank tributary to Left Fork North Creek in Zion NP
  • Russell Gulch, a right bank tributary to Left Fork North Creek in Zion NP
  • Grapevine Wash, a right bank tributary to Left Fork North Creek in Zion NP and on BLM lands
  • Pine Spring Wash, a right bank tributary to Left Fork North Creek in Zion NP
  • Wolf Springs Wash, a right bank tributary to Pine Spring Wash in Zion NP
  • Kolob Creek, a right bank tributary to North Fork Virgin River in Zion NP and BLM lands
  • Oak Creek, a left bank tributary to Kolob Creek on BLM lands
  • Goose Creek, a right bank tributary to North Fork Virgin River in Zion NP
  • Deep Creek, a right bank tributary to North Fork Virgin River in Zion NP and on BLM lands
  • North Fork of Virgin River in Zion NP and BLM lands
  • Imlay Canyon, a right bank tributary to North Fork Virgin River, Zion NP
  • Orderville Canyon, a left bank tributary to North Fork Virgin River, Zion NP
  • Mystery Canyon, ditto
  • Echo Canyon, ditto; the East Rim Trail provides access
  • Behunin Canyon, a right bank tributary to North Fork Virgin River, Zion NP
  • Heaps Canyon, ditto; the Emerald Pools Trail provides access
  • Birch Creek, ditto
  • Oak Creek, ditto
  • Clear Creek, a left bank tributary of Pine Creek, Zion NP
  • Pine Creek, a left bank tributary of North Fork Virgin River, Zion NP
  • East Fork Virgin River, Zion NP; closed to public access
  • Shunes Creek, a left bank tributary to East Fork Virgin River, Zion NP and BLM lands

XV.  National Wilderness Areas

Apache Creek Wilderness, Chino Valley Ranger District, Prescott National Forest, Arizona (location 47 on map). Pinyon-juniper and ponderosa pine forests dominate. Ecoregion NA503.

Beartrap Canyon Wilderness, BLM St. George Field Office, Utah (35). This finger of a mesa and the upper end of Beartrap Canyon are adjacent to the Kolob area of Zion NP. Ecoregion NA1304.

Blackridge Wilderness, BLM St. George Field Office, Utah (42). This area to the south of the Kolob area of Zion NP offers views into the canyons of the park. Ecoregion NA1304.

Box-Death Hollow Wilderness, Escalante Ranger District, Dixie NF, Utah (4). Pine Creek runs through a steep north-south canon known at the box. Death Hollow Creek is to the east. Ecoregion NA 1304.

Canaan Mountain Wilderness, BLM St. George Field Office, Utah (48). A plateau bounded by 2,000-foot cliffs contains natural arches, slot canyons, and is topped by a ponderosa pine forest. The site is just to the south of Zion NP. Ecoregion NA1304.

Castle Creek Wilderness, Bradshaw Ranger District, Prescott National Forest, Arizona (49). This area is characterized by rugged topography with chaparral at higher elevations and saguaro cactus at lower elevations. Ecoregion NA503.

Cedar Bench Wilderness, Verde Ranger District, Prescott National Forest, Arizona (50). This wilderness includes the divide between the Verde and Agua Fria Rivers and is covered with chaparral vegetation. It borders the Coconino NF and Tonto NF. Ecoregion NA503.

West Clear Creek Wilderness, Red Rock Ranger District, Coconino National Forest, Arizona (2). This 20-mile long canyon cuts into the Mogollon Rim, creating 1,000-foot walls. Vegetation is pine and fir at higher elevations and pinyon-juniper at lower elevations. Ecoregion NA503.

Cottonwood Canyon Wilderness, Red Cliffs National Conservation Area, BLM St. George Field Office, Utah (17). An extension of the Zion NP topography of sheer cliffs and seeps, this area contains species from both the Mojave Desert and Colorado Plateau. Ecoregions NA1304 and NA1308.

Cottonwood Forest Wilderness, Dixie National Forest, Utah (51). The sheer cliffs and seeps typical of adjacent Zion NP extend in to this area to the west of I-15. Ecoregion NA1304.

Cottonwood Point Wilderness, BLM Arizona Strip Field Office, Arizona (29). On the east side of Colorado City is a landscape reminiscent of Zion NP, including 1,000-foot cliffs surrounding a canyon in a 6,000-foot elevation plateau. Ecoregion NA1304.

Dark Canyon Wilderness, Manti-LaSal NF, Utah (52). Colored walls of sandstone block light in the morning and late afternoon in Dark and Woodenshoe Canyons. Hiking is available from ten trailheads. Ecoregion NA1304.

Deep Creek Wilderness, BLM St. George District, Utah (35). To the north of Zion NP, the canyon of Deep Creek and Box Canyon are included. Ecoregion NA1304.

Deep Creek North Wilderness, BLM St. George District, Utah (35). Federal lands around Crystal and Deep Creek to the north of the Deep Creek Wilderness are included in this area, which supports trees and shrubs at 6,000 foot elevation. Ecoregion NA1304.

Fossil Springs Wilderness, Red Rock Ranger District, Coconino National Forest (46), Arizona. The most diverse riparian ecosystem in Arizona, with 30 tree species and abundant wildlife. Sandrock Canyon and Calf Pen Canyon are at the upper end of the wilderness. Ecoregion NA503.

Four Peaks Wilderness, Mesa Ranger District, Tonto National Forest, Arizona (13). Rising from a saguaro-covered desert, four isolated mountains reach over 7,000 feet and include chaparral and Douglas fir vegetation. The Wata Mountains and Painted Cliffs on Apache Lake are included in the wilderness. There is a 40-mile trail network. Ecoregions NA503 and NA1310.

Goose Creek Wilderness, BLM St. George District, Utah (35). This small high desert area adjoins Zion NP and protects a portion of the 1,000-foot deep Goose Creek Canyon where it is outside of the national park. Ecoregion NA1304.

Grand Wash Cliffs Wilderness, Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument, Arizona (15). Twelve miles of towering cliffs in two giant 1,000-foot steps mark the boundary between the Mojave Desert and Colorado Plateau. The first step is the Grand Wash Cliffs and the upper step is the Hidden Rim. Ecoregion NA1304.

Granite Mountain Wilderness, Bradshaw Ranger District, Prescott National Forest, Arizona (43). Mountains covered with pinyon-juniper and chaparral overlook Prescott; the Granite Mountain NRT is within the wilderness. Ecoregion NA503.

Hellsgate Wilderness, Payson Ranger District, Tonto National Forest, Arizona (53). At the base of the Mogollon Rim, this wilderness with perennial streams such as Tonto Creek has waterfalls and unusual rock formations. Ecoregion NA503.

Juniper Mesa Wilderness, Chino Valley Ranger District, Prescott National Forest, Arizona (47). A flat-topped mountain with south-facing cliffs supports vegetation of ponderosa pine as well as juniper. Ecoregion NA503.

Kachina Peaks Wilderness, Peaks Ranger District, Coconino National Forest, Arizona (6). The 12,643-foot Humphreys Peak volcano, accessible by trail, shows evidence of Ice Age glaciation. The volcano was active until about 400,000 years ago. The volcano rim is accessible via Inner Basin Trail. Also in the wilderness are Agassiz Peak, Doyle Peak, and Fremont Peak. Ecoregion NA503.

Kanab Creek Wilderness, North Kaibab Ranger District, Kaibab National Forest, and BLM Arizona Strip District, Arizona (54). Gorges 4,000 feet deep have been cut by Kanab Creek, Snake Gulch, Jumpup Canyon, Slide Canyon, and Sowats Canyon on the north side of the Grand Canyon and the west side of the Kaibab Plateau. Ecoregion NA503 and NA1304.

Kendrick Mountain Wilderness, Coconino and Kaibab NFs, Arizona (55). Kendrick Peak is a 10,000-foot volcano to the west of the Kachina Peaks and northwest of Flagstaff. There are three trails leading to the mountain top. Ecoregion NA503.

La Verkin Creek Wilderness, BLM St. George Field Office, Utah (35). On the north side of the Kolob Canyon area of Zion NP, this includes a couple of miles of the La Verkin Creek and Bear canyons. Vegetation is pines, juniper, and scrub oak. Upstream the Nature Conservancy protects the headwaters of the creek via conservation easements on 2,700 acres of ranch properties at Kanarra Mountain. Ecoregion NA1304.

Mazatzal Wilderness, Payson Ranger District, Tonto National Forest, Arizona (37). Canyons of the Verde and East Verde River are vegetated with Sonoran Desert shrubland rising to grassland, chaparral, pinyon-juniper, and ponderosa pine. The 252,000-acre area is one of the original wildernesses designated under the 1964 Wilderness Act. Ecoregion NA503.

Mount Logan Wilderness, Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument, Arizona (56). On the west side of the nearly 8,000-foot mountain is a large natural amphitheater called Hell’s Hole. The area also includes the Uinkaret Plateau, Mount Emma, and Bull Point. Ecoregion NA1304.

Mount Trumbull Wilderness, Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument, Arizona (56). This 8,000-foot mesa supports an old growth ponderosa pine forest. Ecoregion NA1304.

Munds Mountain Wilderness, Red Rock Ranger District, Coconino National Forest, Arizona (45). The red-rock formations Courthouse Butte and Bell Rock dominate this wilderness southeast of Sedona, which also includes Woods Canyon and Horse Mesa. Hot Loop and Jacks Canyon Trails lead to Munds Mountain. Ecoregion NA503.

Paiute Wilderness, BLM Arizona Strip District, Arizona (15). Preserves the Virgin Mountains south of I-15 in northwestern Arizona. The 8,000-foot Mount Bangs and Sullivan Canyon are major features. The northern part is the Virgin River Narrows along I-15. The southern part includes Black Rock Mountain, Sand Cove and Pocum Cove and is in the Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument. Ecoregion NA1304 and NA1308.

Paria Canyon-Vermillion Cliffs Wilderness, Vermillion Cliffs National Monument, Arizona-Utah (18). The Arizona portion, including the Paria Canyon and Vermillion Cliffs, is described under the National Landscape Conservation System, Vermillion cliffs NM. The wilderness includes the Coyote Buttes, the Paria River canyon, and the Vermillion Cliffs along US Route 89A. The slot canyon formed by the Paria River is only three feet in width in places, and can be quickly inundated by a 20-foot wall of water following a rain. The Utah portion includes the Buckskin Gulch, a tributary of the Paria. Ecoregion NA1304.

Pine Mountain Wilderness, Verde Ranger District, Prescott National Forest (50). This wilderness is located on the Verde Rim in the Prescott and Tonto National Forests and is covered with a sky island of ponderosa pine and Douglas fir at higher elevations. It is located to the northwest of Mazatzal Wilderness and to the east of Agua Fria National Monument. Ecoregion NA503.

Red Butte Wilderness, BLM St. George Field Office, Utah (35). This small wilderness borders the southern portion of the Kolob Section of Zion National Park and includes Red Butte, which rises 500 feet above the Lower Kolob Plateau. Ecoregion NA1304.

Red Mountain Wilderness, Red Cliffs National Conservation Area, BLM St. George Field Office, Utah (17). This is a vast expanse of red sand and slickrock with pinyon-juniper vegetation, located to the west of Snow Canyon State Park. Ecoregion NA1304.

Red Rock-Secret Mountain Wilderness, Red Rock Ranger District, Coconino National Forest, Arizona (57). High flat-topped mountains jut out into 1,500-foot deep canyons and dominate this wilderness in the Red Rock country north of Sedona. Included are West Fork Oak Creek, Wilson Mountain NRT, Casner Mountain, and Secret Mountain. The hike up the West Fork Oak Creek is considered one of the most scenic in Arizona. A natural red sandstone bridge called Devil’s Bridge is also included. Ecoregion NA503.

Saddle Mountain Wilderness, North Kaibab Ranger District, Kaibab National Forest, Arizona (58). This is the ‘East Rim’ of the Grand Canyon. This escarpment shaped like a saddle and horn on the north edge of Grand Canyon National Park has pinyon-juniper and pine-fir at higher elevations. Features included are Saddle Mountain, the Cocks Combs, and Tater Canyon. Ecoregion NA1304.

Salome Wilderness, Pleasant Valley Ranger District, Tonto National Forest, Arizona (59). Salome Creek drains this area of canyons north of Theodore Roosevelt Lake, south of Pleasant Valley, and west of State Route 288. Hell’s Hole is an area of precipitous cliffs; vegetation is grassland and chaparral. Ecoregion NA503.

Salt River Canyon Wilderness, Globe Ranger District, Tonto National Forest (60). This preserves a spectacular steep-walled canyon upstream of Theodore Roosevelt Lake on the boundary with the White Mountain Apache reservation. Ecoregion NA503.

Sierra Ancha Wilderness, Pleasant Valley Ranger District, Tonto National Forest, Arizona (60). Highlights include box canyons, vertical cliffs, and mesas covered with pines. Vegetation in lower elevations is chaparral. Ecoregion NA503.

Strawberry Crater Wilderness, Coconino NF, Arizona (61). This cinder cone erupted about 1100 CE and is located between Sunset Crater Volcano and Wupatki NM at the northeastern edge of the Coconino NF. Ecoregion NA503.

Sycamore Canyon Wilderness, Peaks Ranger District, Coconino, Kaibab, and Prescott National Forests, Arizona (57). One of Arizona’s most dramatic and beautiful canyons, Sycamore is viewed as a mini-Grand Canyon and extends for 20 miles through this wilderness. A forest of decisuous hardwoods grow along the creek in the bottom of the canyon. Ecoregion NA503.

Taylor Creek Wilderness, BLM, Utah (35). This small area adjoins the Kolob section of Zion NP and contains the Middle Fork Taylor Creek canyon. Ecoregion NA1304.

Wabayuma Peak Wilderness, BLM Kingman Field Office, Arizona (39). The Hualapai Mountains rise 5,000 feet above the desert floor and support both Sonoran and Mojave Desert vegetation, including the northernmost population of saguaro cactus. The wilderness is the area between Walnut Creek and Mackenzie Wash and east of I-40. Ecoregions NA1304, 1308 and 1310.

Wet Beaver Wilderness, Red Rock Ranger District, Coconino National Forest, Arizona (2). A perennial desert stream flows in a steep canyon lined with red cliffs. This area is part of the Beaver Creek Experimental Watershed. Ecoregion NA503.

Woodchute Wilderness, Prescott National Forest, Arizona (57). Ponderosa pine forests overlooking Jerome. Ecoregion NA503.

Zion Wilderness, Zion NP, Utah (35). Ecoregion NA1304. For description see Zion NP.

XVI.  Other Federal Sites

Labyrinth Canyon, BLM Price Field Office, Utah (location 62 on map). Float trips extend 45 miles from Green River SP south to Canyonlands NP. Ecoregion NA1304.

San Rafael Swell, BLM, Utah (63). To the west of Green River, Utah, along I-70, this north-south geologic feature rises dramatically 2,000 feet out of the desert into spires, buttes, and canyons. To the north is the Little Grand Canyon of the San Rafael River, and to the south is Temple Mountain and Little Wild Horse Canyon. Ecoregion NA1304.

XVII.  State and Local Sites

Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park, Utah (location 64 on map). A notch between the Moquith and Moccasin Mountains funnels wind carrying eroded sand particles. As the wind enters the open valley, it deposits sand. This is the only major sand dune area in the Colorado Plateau. Ecoregion NA1304.

Dead Horse Ranch State Park and Verde River Greenway State Natural Area, Arizona (57). Located at Cottonwood, this preserves a rare six-mile riparian corridor along the Verde River that contains a cottonwood and willow riparian gallery forest. Adjacent is a wetland known as Tavasci Marsh. There are 20 rare species including southwestern willow flycatchers and lowland leopard frog. Ecoregion NA503.

Escalante Petrified Forest State Park, Utah (65). Trails lead to petrified wood up to five feet in diameter, along with dinosaur bones. The park is also a reservoir recreation area for Wide Hollow Reservoir. Ecoregion NA1304.

Fool Hollow Lake Recreation Area, Arizona (12). This is a reservoir recreation area just north of Show Low in the Arizona state park system. Ecoregion NA503.

Green River State Park, Utah (66). This site is the put-in point for river trips down Labyrinth Canyon. The 45-mile float trip ends at Mineral Bottom near the north boundary of Canyonlands NP. Another 52 miles of floating is available through Canyonlands NP to the confluence with the Colorado River. Ecoregion NA1304.

Goblin Valley State Park, Utah (67). Eroded sandstone formations called goblins are found here. The otherworldly look made the park the site for the filming of the movie Galaxy Quest. Ecoregion NA1304.

Havasu Canyon, Havasupai Nation (68). Spectacular waterfalls are located to the west of the South Rim of Grand Canyon National Park and accessible from an eight-mile trail. Ecoregion NA 1304.

Huntington State Park, Utah (38). See Huntington North Reservoir in federal recreation lakes section.

Kodachrome Basin State Park, Utah (69). The 67 eroded sandstone spires of Jurassic age are the main feature of this park surrounded by Grand Staircase National Monument (see). Trails lead to formations, Angel’s Palace, and Shakespeare Arch. Ten miles south is Grosvenor Arch, a double arch also formed in Jurassic sandstone. Ecoregion NA1304.

Lake Powell Navajo Tribal Park, Arizona-Utah (70). This park in Arizona ncludes Antelope Canyon east of Page and the East Waterholes on US 89. It also includes the land trail to Rainbow Bridge National Monument in Utah. Ecoregion NA1304.

Little Colorado River Gorge Navajo Tribal Park, Arizona (71). This park includes the Little Colorado River between Cameron and the Colorado River. Here the Little Colorado descends 2,000 feet in 30 miles. The park also includes Grand Falls, northeast of Flagstaff on the Little Colorado River. Ecoregion NA1304.

Millsite State Park, Utah (72). This reservoir recreation site also offers mountain biking in Ferron Canyon. Ecoregion NA1304.

Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park, Navajo Nation (21). Famous for movie scenes of buttes and spires, Monument Valley Tribal Park is accessible from a public tour road, but a guide is needed to visit other areas. Ecoregion NA1304.

Otter Creek State Park, Utah (73). This reservoir recreation area is also a birding area. Ecoregion NA1304.

Quail Creek State Park, Utah (17). A reservoir recreation area off I-15. Ecoregion NA130?

Red Rock State Park, Arizona (45). Located downstream from Sedona on Oak Creek, this provides riparian habitat along Oak Creek and views of the red rock formations in the Sedona area. Ecoregion NA503.

Sand Hollow State Park, Utah (17). A reservoir recreation area. Ecoregion NA 1304.

Slide Rock State Park, Arizona (45). Located in Oak Creek Canyon and surrounded by the Coconino NF, the park is a historic apple farm acquired under the Homestead Act in 1910. On the adjacent national forest property is a local swimming hole and water chute with small waterfalls. Ecoregion NA503.

Tonto Natural Bridge State Park, Arizona (74). This is actually a tunnel of travertine about 400 feet long, 183 feet high, and 150 feet wide and appears as a huge cave. It is located just to the northeast of the Mazatzal Wilderness in Tonto NF. Ecoregion NA503.

Upper Verde River State Wildlife Area, Arizona (site 75). Located north of Chino Valley on route 89, this is a riparian area and migratory bird stopover site. Ecoregion NA503.

XVIII.  Other Natural Sites

Autumn Buttercup Preserve, the Nature Conservancy, Utah (location 76 on map). This preserve is a restoration area for the autumn buttercup, an endangered plant which is only found in the Sevier Valley near Panguitch. Ecoregion NA1304.

Hart Prairie Preserve, The Nature Conservancy, Arizona (6). This private area surrounded by the Coconino NF protects the world’s largest Bebb willow community, along with old growth ponderosa pine and prairie dogs. Ecoregion NA503.

Kane Ranch and Two Mile Ranch, Arizona (7, 18, 54, 58). These ranches are 850,000 acres and overlay and lie adjacent to parts of the Kanab Creek Wilderness, Kaibab National Forest, and Vermilion Cliffs National Monument and are operated for landscape restoration purposes by the Grand Canyon Trust. Kane Ranch is located in the House Rock Valley and Two Mile Ranch is on the Paria Plateau. Ecoregions NA503 and NA1304.

XIX.  Further Reading

Ash, Sidney. 2001. A Late Triassic Trove of Fossil Plants. Science 294:2093.

The Beaver Creek Biosphere Reserve. http://ag.arizona.edu/OALS/watershed/beaver/aboutprogram.html (accessed 12/23/11).

Bloeser, Bonnie, J. William Schopf, Robert J. Horodyski, and William J. Breed. 1977. Chitinozoans from the Lake Precambrian Chuar Group of the Grand Canyon, Arizona. Science 195:676-679.

Carter, Luther J. 1966. Grand Canyon: Colorado Dams Debated. Science 152:1600-1605.

Courchamp, Franck, Rosie Woodroffe and Gary Roemer. 2003. Removing Protected Populations to Save Endangered Species. Science 302:1532.

Ferguson, Gary, John Clayton and Maureen B. Keilty. 2001. Guide to America’s Outdoors: Southern Rockies. National Geographic Society, Washington, DC.

Govedich, Fredric R. and Bonnie A. Bain. 2005. All About the Leeches of Montezuma Well. http://www.nps.gov/moca/naturescience/upload/Montezuma_Well_Leeches.pdf (accessed 3/24/2012).

Hirsch, Karl F. et al. 1989. Upper Jurassic Dinosaur Egg from Utah. Science 243:1711-1713.

Jenkins, Farish A., Jr., A.W. Crompton, and William R. Downs. 1983. Mesozoic Mammals from Arizona: New Evidence on Mammalian Evolution. Science 222:1233-1235.

Kerr, Richard A. 1983. Volcanoes to Keep an Eye on. Science 221:634-635.

Maienschein, Jane. 1994. Pattern and Process in Early Studies of Arizona’s San Francisco Peaks. BioScience 44:479-485.

Mickelson, Debra L, Jaqueline E. Huntoon and Erik P. Kvale. 2006. The Diversity and Stratigraphic Distribution of Pre-Dinosaurian Communities from the Triassic Moenkopi Formation. Pp. 132-137 In Lucas, S.G. et al., eds. Fossils from Federal Lands. New Mexico Museum of Natural History and Science Bulletin 34.

Mohlenbrock, Robert H. 2011. Desert Wanderings. Natural History, October 2011, pp. 38-39.

Mohlenbrock, Robert H. 1987. Sycamore Canyon, Arizona. Natural History, September 1987, pp. 16-18.

Mohlenbrock, Robert H. 1986. Bradshaw Mountains, Arizona. Natural History, July 1986, pp. 30-32.

Mohlenbrock, Robert H. 1984. The Field Guide to U.S. National Forests. Congdon and Weed, Inc.

O’Gara, Geoffrey. 2000. Guide to America’s Outdoors: Far West. National Geographic Society, Washington, DC.

Pennisi, Elizabeth. 2004. The Grand (Canyon) Experiment. Science 306:1884-1886.

Sertich, J.J.W., and Loewen, M. 2010. A New Basal Sauropodomorph Dinosaur from the Lower Jurassic Navajo Sandstone of Southern Utah PLoS ONE, 5 (3) DOI: http://www.plosone.org/article/info%3Adoi%2F10.1371%2Fjournal.pone.0009789
Sonoran Desert Naturalist. http://www.arizonensis.org/sonoran/places/index.html (accessed 12/23/11).

Stokstad, Erik. 2001. Utah’s Fossil Trove Beckons, and Tests, Researchers. Science 294:41-43

UNESCO-Man and the Biosphere Reserves Directory. http://www.unesco.org/mabdb/br/brdir/directory/database.asp (accessed 5/30/11).

US Forest Service, Rocky Mountain Research Station, Southwest Watershed Sciences Team, Beaver Creek Experimental Watershed. http://www.rmrs.nau.edu/awa/bcew/ (accessed 12/23/11)

White, Mel. 2000. Guide to America’s Outdoors: Southwest. National Geographic Society.

World Heritage List. http://whc.unesco.org/en/list (accessed 5/22/11).

Sunday, May 6, 2012

Colorado Plateau Shrublands and Arizona Mountains Forests

The world’s best record of terrestrial Cretaceous life, Merriam’s life zones, and Colorado River silt

I.  Map boundaries: 33 to 40 degrees North; 110 to 114 degrees West

II.  Country (State): United States (Arizona, Utah).

III.  Overview

This map area includes the western Colorado Plateau, which is marked by dramatic escarpments along all its boundaries, leaving little doubt of its boundaries. To the south, it abruptly drops off at the Mogollon Rim in the Apache and Coconino NFs. To the west, there are the cliffs of the Grand Canyon and Grand Canyon Parashant National Monument. To the north, the Wasatch Plateaus drop off dramatically into the Great Basin. The Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument is becoming known at the best record of Late Cretaceous terrestrial life. The remains of dinosaurs—hadrosaurs, ceratopsians, and tyrannosaurs—are impressive, with more than 50 genera of dinosaurs represented. There are more than 5,000 square km of fossil-rich Late Cretaceous rocks exposed. The realization of the fossil riches in the area did not come until the 1980s. More than 800 fossil locations are known (Stokstad 2001). In 2011, the sixth entirely new species of dinosaur was discovered in the monument. Fossil of plants and invertebrates are also preserved with the dinosaurs. The monument contains the Wolverine Petrified Forest, the second largest Late Triassic fossil forest known (Ash 2001). Elsewhere in the Colorado Plateau are other notable fossil sites. The Cleveland-Lloyd Dinosaur Quarry is the densest known dinosaur fossil bed from the Jurassic Period, yielding more than 12,000 bones representing 12 dinosaur genera and dinosaur eggs (Hirsch et al 1989). Dinosaur trackways are found in the Grand Staircase-Escalante NM as well as on the Navajo Reservation. Pre-dinosaurian trackways of early four-legged vertebrates, fish fin impressions, and invertebrate impressions are at Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Capitol Reef National Park, and along the San Rafael Swell (Mickelson, Huntoon, and Kvale 2006). Mammal-like reptiles are found at Comb Ridge and early mammals are found in the Kayenta Formation, both on the Navajo Reservation (Jenkins, Crompton and Downs 1983). The Grand Canyon has Precambrian rocks with fossils of early metazoans (Bloeser et al. 1977).

The Colorado Plateau is a region of natural arches and bridges overlooking canyonlands. The largest of all is Rainbow Bridge, at 290 feet in height and 275 feet. The world’s largest natural bridge spans a side canyon of Glen Canyon on the Colorado River and is a near-perfect parabola. Other notable arches and bridges are in Natural Bridges National Monument to the northeast of Rainbow Bridge, Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument to the north, the surrounding Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, and the Navajo Nation lands to the south.

There is now only one reservoir in the Colorado Plateau canyonlands along the Colorado River, backed up behind Glen Canyon Dam. There were once plans for more, including two dams in the Grand Canyon, at Bridge Canyon and Marble Canyon, one along the Little Colorado, at Coconino Dam, and one along the Paria River. All were part of a project to bring more water to the lower Colorado River and store it in the dams. The water from other river basins would arrive via an aqueduct from the Columbia basin. The environmental battle over the dams reached its peak in the 1960s. The only feature that was completed was the aqueduct from Lake Havasu to Phoenix and Tucson. One of the criticisms of the dam proposals was that the dams would keep silt from flushing out from the natural scouring that occurs with a free-flowing river (Carter 1966). It was believed that the balance of sand deposition and erosion would be disturbed. This appears to have been a valid criticism, as the Glen Canyon Dam operation has been changed in the last ten years to scour the canyon and restore sand and gravel bars. If water is released only from the Glen Canyon Dam without new sediment input, this is also counterproductive because the water will just wash existing sandbars downstream. What is needed is sediment-laden water. To try to simulate these conditions, water is now released from Glen Canyon after heavy rains flush sediment from the Paria River. Regardless of the success of the new sediment release and scouring strategy, the river will need to be monitored and managed to ensure that rare snails and fish, as well as other native species, are protected by the new river management strategy (Pennisi 2004).

At the San Francisco Peaks in the Kachina Peaks Wilderness, the Colorado Plateau includes a group of volcanoes that last erupted more than 10,000 years ago but overlie large magma chambers (Kerr 1983). In fact, Sunset Crater Volcano NM and Strawberry Crater Wilderness erupted more recently. Thus these volcanoes are potentially dangerous even though they have been quiet in recent years. It was from a basecamp on the slopes of the San Francisco Peaks that C. Hart Merriam developed his theory of life zones in the late 1800s, and this is the precursor to the ecosystem delineation of the world that is the subject of this blog. In the vicinity of the San Francisco Peaks, it is possible to go from desert to alpine tundra in a short distance around Flagstaff and the Grand Canyon. Merriam saw in the San Francisco Peaks a microcosm of the entire United States. The north-south distribution of plants and animals was replicated by the vertical zones on the mountains. He believed that temperature was the key to the observed distribution of plants and animals, and that migration of plants and animals in response to changing climates led to many northern species finding a place to live on higher mountains. The existence of a boreal zone was support for this interpretation. While modern interpretations indicate that things are more complex due to sun angles and other factors, and that zones are not as sharp as envisioned by Merriam, the basic idea that patterns of plants and animals characterize certain ecosystems holds sway today (Maienschein 1994)

On the southern portions of the Arizona Mountains, as the Colorado Plateau drops off to the Sonoran Desert, a transitional vegetation of chaparral appears in the Prescott and Tonto National Forests. This vegetation is similar in appearance to the Mediterranean-climate chaparral in California. However, here it grows in an area where there are summer rains. Like in California, this vegetation is fire-adapted (Mohlenbrock 1986).

IV.  Terrestrial Ecoregions

Ecoregions of the Neararctic Biome

Temperate Coniferous Forests

NA 503, Arizona Mountains forests. Ponderosa pine forests predominate in open park-like areas. Above 2,000 m are Douglas-fir and spruce. Found in Arizona on this map; also extends into New Mexico.

Deserts & Xeric Shrublands

NA 1304, Colorado Plateau shrublands. Characterized by extensive and sparse pinyon pine and juniper woodlands. Lower elevations have arid grasslands and sagebrush. Found in Arizona and Utah on this map; also extends into Colorado and New Mexico.

V.  Freshwater Ecoregions

Xeric Freshwaters and Closed Basins

129 Vegas-Virgin. This includes the watersheds of the Meadow Valley Wash, Pahranagat Wash, Virgin River, and White River, all in the Las Vegas area and northward in Arizona, Nevada and Utah. Endemic species are three species of spinedace, Virgin River chub, and Moapa speckled dace.

130 Colorado. The portions of this large ecoregion included in this discussion are the Colorado upstream from Lake Havasu including the major tributaries of the Virgin in the Mojave Desert and the Little Colorado, San Juan, and Green in the Colorado Plateau. Endemic fish are humpback chub, bonytail, and razorback sucker, and near-endemics are Colorado spine dace, Colorado pikeminnow, several suckers, and Apache trout.

131 Gila. The portions of this ecoregion included in this discussion include the drainage from the Mogollon Rim in the Arizona Mountain forests and the upper Verde River watershed east of the Juniper Mountains of Arizona. Endemic species are the Santa Cruz pupfish, Gila chub, spikedace, Gila trout, and loach minnow.

VI.  World Heritage Site

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona (location 1 on map). The most spectacular gorge in the world, with two billion years of strata and seven life zones. The park includes the north bank of the Colorado River from Pearce Ferry on Lake Mead to Navajo Bridge, and the south bank from the Hualapai Reservation to the Navajo Reservation. The lower elevations of the park are in the Mojave Desert, the middle-elevations are in the Colorado Plateau, and the high elevations, including the visitor areas at the North Rim and South Rim, are in the Arizona Mountains forests. The North Rim includes the Bright Angel Point area, Point Imperial, Point Sublime, Swamp Point, Toroweap Overlook, and and Cape Royal Overlook areas. The South Rim includes the Grand Canyon Village, Hermits Rest, and Desert View areas. Lipan and Yaki Points along the South Rim are an IBA for raptor migration, with 10,000 birds spotted during fall migration season at each location. Colorado River areas included in the park are Lower Granite Gorge, Middle Granite Gorge, Granite Gorge, and Marble Canyon. Marble Canyon is considered an IBA for California condor and waterfowl migrants. Terrestrial ecoregions NA503, NA1308, and NA1304.

VII.  Man and the Biosphere Reserves

Beaver Creek Experimental Watershed, Coconino National Forest, Arizona (location 2 on map)). Watershed management research from the 1950s occurred in a pinyon-juniper and ponderosa pine forest. This is a 250,000-acre research site to determine how much water yield can be increased by altering vegetation. The biosphere reserve includes the watershed from Camp Verde upstream and today includes Montezuma Castle National Monument, Munds Mountain Wilderness, and Wet Beaver Wilderness in addition to other Coconino National Forest lands. Ecoregion NA503.

VIII.  National Forest (NF) System

Ashley NF, Utah (location 3 on map). The unit of the forest shown in this map area rises sharply above the Bad Land Cliffs and Nine Mile Canyon. Ecoregion NA530 and NA1304.

Beaver Creek Experimental Watershed, Coconino National Forest, Arizona. See description under Biosphere Reserves.

Coconino NF, Arizona (2). The forest includes the red rock formations of Sedona and Oak Creek Canyon and the San Francisco Peaks north of Flagstaff (see description of San Francisco Peaks in the overview paragraphs). In addition to the San Francisco Peaks, the forest has another special treasure, Sedona and the Oak Creek Canyon. The red rock formations (otherwise known as new age energy vortices) of Sedona are mostly on national forest lands. The forest includes the West Clear Creek, Fossil Springs, Kachina Peaks, Kendrick Mountain, Munds Mountain, Red Rock-Secret Mountain, Strawberry Crater, Sycamore Canyon, Wet Beaver Wilderness areas, as well as a long section of the Arizona National Scenic Trail. The Beaver Creek Experimental Watershed is described under Biosphere Reserves. A chain of lakes southeast of Flatstaff which starts at Lower Lake Mary and extends for 25 miles through Mormon Lake to Hay Lake in the southeast is the Anderson Mesa IBA. Anderson Mesa with its lakes and wetlands is an IBA for ducks and spring migrants. North-flowing canyons from the Mogollon Rim in the Coconino east of Baker Butte are part of the Mogollon Rim Snowmelt Draws, an IBA for breeding warblers. Lower Oak Creek between Red Rock State Park and Page Springs state fish hatchery supports a mature riparian gallery forest and is an IBA. Near Flagstaff is the Arboretum at Flagstaff, located on 200 acres of Coconino NF lands in a ponderosa pine forest. Ecoregions NA503 and NA1304.

Dixie NF, Utah (4). The westernmost area, bordering Nevada, contains the Pine Valley Mountains, which rise sharply from the desert floor. The Markagunt Plateau unit features Navajo Lake, which was dammed by a lava flow. Water drains out of the lake on a red limestone cliff, forming a waterfall. The 11,000-foot western edge of the plateau is called Bryan Head Peak. The unit to the east features Red Canyon, while further to the east is Hell’s Backbone and the Aquarius Plateau. Wilderness areas include Ashdown Gorge, Box-Death Hollow, Cottonwood Forest, Pine Valley Mountain, Ecoregions NA530, NA1304, NA1305.

Fishlake NF, Utah (5). At Fish Lake in the eastern unit, the outline on the map suggests a fish. The lake was dammed by a glacier and is lined with aspens. The area to the south of Fish Lake is the largest contiguous tract of sagebrush in Utah and is an IBA for the greater sage grouse. In the western unit is the Tushar Range, a high-altitude area where eight peaks exceed 10,000 feet in elevation. Ecoregions NA530, NA1304, NA1305.

Fort Valley Experimental Forest, Coconino NF, Arizona (6). This first experimental forest in the nation began with studies on ponderosa pine regeneration. There are three units north of Flagstaff and two units south. Ecoregion NA503.

Kaibab NF, Arizona (7). The three units include the high elevation Kaibab Plateau north of the Grand Canyon, home of the rare Kaibab squirrel and a National Natural Landmark, a second area of pinyon-juniper south of the Grand Canyon, and a third area west of Flagstaff which includes Sycamore Canyon wilderness. Wilderness areas are Kanab Creek, Kendrick Mountain, Saddle Mountain, and Sycamore Canyon. Ecoregions NA503, NA1304.

Long Valley Experimental Forest, Coconino NF, Arizona (8). This area 46 miles south of Flagstaff is the last unharvested ponderosa pine forest in the U.S. The focus here is on ponderosa pine regeneration in a limestone-sandstone soil and the ecological restoration process. Ecoregion NA503.

Manti-LaSal NF, Utah (9). Skyline Drive follows the high, cool Uinta Mountain range for more than 70 miles. The Grove of the Giant Aspens, with trunk diameters up to 38 inches, is also found here. Wilderness areas include Dark Canyon. Ecoregions NA530, NA1304, NA1305.

Prescott NF, Arizona (10). In the high desert are flowering yuccas, agaves, and cacti, whereas at higher elevations pinyon-juniper and oak grow. Included in the forest are Apache Creek, Castle Creek, Cedar Bench, Granite Mountain, Juniper Mesa, Pine Mountain, Sycamore Canyon, and Woodchute Wildernesses. Ecoregion NA503.

Sierra Ancha Experimental Forest, Tonto NF, Arizona (11). This is a watershed studies area in a chaparral shrub and conifer forest. Ecoregion NA503.

Sitgreaves NF, Arizona (12). Along the Mogollon Rim, a continuous vertical cliff 1,000 feet high, the Sitgreaves is a vast ponderosa pine forest. North-flowing canyons from the Mogollon Rim in the Sitgreaves are part of the Mogollon Rim Snowmelt Draws, an IBA for breeding warblers. Also located in the map area is Chevelon Canyon, draining north to the Little Colorado River. North of Show Low is Pintail Lake, a created wastewater treatment wetland that attracts waterfowl and has become a stop to view wetland and water birds. Ecoregions NA503 and NA1304.

Tonto NF, Arizona (13). The southern parts, such as the Superstitition Wilderness, are in the Sonoran Desert, with saguaros, cholla, and cacti, while in the north this grades to a ponderosa pine forest. Diamond Point is a mountain with an abundance of quartz crystals. The Mazatzal, Sierra Ancha, and Superstition wilderness areas are in the forest, as is a long section of the Arizona National Scenic Trail. Ecoregions NA503 and NA1310.

IX.  National Landscape Conservation System (wilderness areas are in a separate list below)

Agua Fria National Monument, Arizona (location 14 on map). This 2,000-foot deep canyon is in an area of grasslands 40 miles to the north of Phoenix. A river trail provides access to a riparian area and scenic views. The riparian corridors provide breeding habitat for 28 birds of special conservation status and are considered an IBA. Ecoregion NA503.

Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument, Arizona (15). The monument includes overlooks of the western Grand Canyon managed by the National Park Service, including Kelly Point, Twin Point, and Whitman Canyon. The BLM portions of the monument include Grand Wash Cliffs Wilderness, Mount Trumbull Wilderness, Mount Logan Wilderness, and part of Paiute Wilderness. The BLM portion also includes canyons, mountains, and buttes of the Shivwits Plateau and Grand Wash Cliffs, the latter of which is the boundary between the Mojave Desert and the Colorado Plateau. Ecoregions NA1304 and NA1308.

Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, Utah (16). Known as a treasure trove of dinosaurs (see narrative above), the park offers scenic drives, slot canyons, hoodoos, dinosaur tracks, and arches. The three major sections, from west to east, are the Grand Staircase, Kaiparowits Plateau, and the Escalante River canyons. This is one of the most remote areas in the lower 48 states. Ecoregion NA1304.

Red Cliffs National Conservation Area, BLM St. George Field Office, Utah (17). Just to the south of the Pine Valley Mountains of the Dixie NF, this area includes the Cottonwood Canyon and Red Mountain wilderness areas. It is meeting place of three ecoregions (Colorado Plateau, Great Basin, and Mojave Desert) and protects the desert tortoise. Populations here are the densest in its range. Adjacent is Snow Canyon State Park. Ecoregions NA 1304 and 1308.

Vermillion Cliffs National Monument, BLM Kanab Field Office, Arizona (18). Considered one of the best canyon backpacking areas in the world, the site is known for slot canyons, arches, and hanging gardens of ferns. Vermillion Cliffs are 3,000 feet in height. Part of the Paria Canyon-Vermillion Cliffs Wilderness is included in the monument, as well as the Paria Plateau, which is not designated as wilderness. Ecoregion NA1304.

X.  National Natural Landmarks (NNLs)

Barringer Meteor Crater, Meteor Crater Enterprises, Inc., Arizona (location 19 on map). This one-mile diameter, 550-foot deep impact structure is evidence of an event that took place 50,000 years ago. A meteor with a diameter of 150 feet and a speed of 35,000 miles per hour struck this spot, vaporizing rock and throwing chunks for 24 miles. It is one of the best preserved impact sites. Ecoregion NA1304.

Cleveland-Lloyd Dinosaur Quarry, BLM Price Field Office, Utah (20). The densest known dinosaur bed from the Jurassic Period, the site has yielded 12,000 bones from seven genera, and several thousand more are yet to be excavated. The site was apparently some kind of predator trap, since 66 percent are from the meat-eating genus Allosaurus. The bones have been distributed to 65 museums around the world. A visitor center is on site. Ecoregion NA1304.

Comb Ridge, Monument Valley Tribal Park, Navajo Nation (21). Mammal-like reptile fossils of a rodent-like organism are found north of Kayenta; they lived from the late Triassic to mid-Cretaceous periods (200 to 175 million years ago). Comb Ridge is the only location where these fossils are found in North America. The similarity to other fossils in South Africa and South America provides support for continental drift. Other herbivorous dinosaurs have been found north of the San Juan River along Comb Ridge in Utah (Sertich and Loewen 2010). Ecoregion NA1304.

Kaibab Squirrel Area, Grand Canyon National Park and Kaibab National Forest, Arizona (7). The Kaibab squirrel is a species that is only found on the North Rim of the Grand Canyon National Park and the Kaibab Plateau within Kaibab NF. The elevation range of the ponderosa pine forests where they are found is about 5,500 to 8,000 feet in this area. The squirrels found south of the Grand Canyon are Abert squirrels. It is often used in biology textbooks as an example of evolution when a species becomes isolated. Ecoregion NA503.

Little Rockies, BLM Henry Mountains Field Station, Utah (22). This is the classic geologic site for igneous intrusive sills, plugs, and dikes into sedimentary structures. The two main mountain peaks are Mount Ellsworth and Mount Holmes, both to the east of Route 276 and to the west of Hite in the Glen Canyon NRA. Ecoregion NA1304.

XI.  National Park (NP) System

Bryce Canyon NP, Utah (location 23 on map) Known for its famous spires, or hoodoos, which are erosional features below the rim of the Paunsaugant Plateau, the park spans 2,000 feet in elevation. Forests and meadows are on top of the 9,000-foot plateau. An extensive scenic trail network winds among the hoodoos from Fairyland Point south to Rainbow Point, while a road follows the rim 18 miles between the two points. Ecoregion NA1304.

Canyonlands NP, Utah (24). A land of canyons, mesas, river gorges, and buttes overlooks the canyons of the Green and Colorado Rivers. Only the western portion of the park (the Maze) is on the map area. The Maze overlook and the Land of Standing Rocks are accessible by primitive roads from the west. The Upheaval Dome structure is an impact crater 10 km in diameter that was formed 170 million years ago. The Horseshoe Canyon Unit is an isolated unit separated from the rest of the park known for rock art. The 52-mile Stillwater Canyon along the Green River in the park is used for float trips. Ecoregion NA1304.

Capitol Reef NP, Utah (25). Waterpocket Fold, a 100-mile-long monocline, is protected in this park, which extends from the high Wasatch Plateaus to the Colorado River. The west side of the fold is 7,000 feet higher than the east side. The Burr Trail Road ascends the southern part of the fold in a series of switchbacks. Rock art panels can be seen on canyon walls. The Fremont River provides riparian areas and is a migration corridor, making it an IBA. North of the fold is Cathedral Valley, which contains free-standing monoliths, the Gypsum Sinkhole, and Glass Mountain. Fossil stromatolites are found in the sandstones of the park. Trackways left by early Triassic fish, reptiles, and amphibians are found in the park. Ecoregion NA1304.

Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Arizona and Utah (26). In addition to Lake Powell, this area includes the right bank of the Colorado River from the Navajo Bridge upstream to the San Juan River, and the right bank of the San Juan River from the Colorado upstream to Goosenecks. Lee’s Ferry, Wahweap, Bullfrog, Hite, and Halls Crossing are major visitor areas. In addition, the Escalante River and its canyons, the Dirty Devil River canyons, Cataract Canyon, and the Orange Cliffs overlooking the Green River are included in the park area. Ecoregion NA1304.

Grand Canyon NP, Arizona (1). See description under world heritage sites.

Montezuma Castle National Monument, Arizona (2). This two-unit area includes cliff dwellings and Montezuma Well, both along Beaver Creek in the Coconino NF. The unique aquatic habitat found in Montezuma Well, a collapsed limestone sinkhole, harbors an endemic leech species which feeds on an endemic amphipod (Govedich and Bain 2005). Ecoregion NA503.

Natural Bridges National Monument, Utah (27). This area preserves three natural bridges at the head of White Canyon east of the Colorado River. From north to south, these are Sipapu Bridge, Kachina Bridge, and Owachomo Bridge. Ecoregion NA1304.

Navajo National Monument, Navajo Nation (28). This cultural site preserves cliff dwellings. Ecoregion NA1304.

Pipe Spring National Monument, Arizona (29). This preserves a desert oasis used by the Kaibab-Paiute Nation and Mormon settlers.

Rainbow Bridge National Monument, Utah (30). The world’s largest natural bridge, 290 feet in height, is accessible from Lake Powell via a boat trip of 50 miles from Wahweap Marina to the west or 50 miles from Bullfrog or Halls Crossing Marinas to the north. See Overview text. Ecoregion NA1304.

Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument, Arizona (31). Between 1040 and 1100 CE, this cinder cone formed on the eastern edge of San Francisco Peak and continued erupting up until 1250 CE. It is one of 600 known volcanoes in northern Arizona. Ecoregion NA503

Tonto National Monument, Arizona (11). This national park system unit surrounded by the Tonto NF preserves cliff dwellings. Ecoregion NA503.

Tuzigoot National Monument, Arizona (32). This preserves a hilltop pueblo overlooking the Verde River near Clarkdale. The Verde River both upstream and downstream of the park, Peck’s Lake, and Tavasci Marsh in the vicinity of Clarkdale and Cottonwood is an IBA for marsh birds and waterfowl. Ecoregion NA503.

Walnut Canyon National Monument, Arizona (33). Just east of Flagstaff are 700-year-old cliff dwellings. Six miles of the 20-mile long canyon are in the national monument; the rest is in Coconino NF. NA503.

Wupatki National Monument, Arizona (34). This site preserves pueblos at the edge of the Colorado Plateau. NA1304.

Zion NP, Utah (35). The tallest sandstone escarpments in the world rise 2,000 feet above the valley of the Virgin River. Major visitor areas are Kolob Canyon, which includes a trail to Kolob Arch, one of the world;s largest freestanding arches, the Kolob Terrace Road, and Zion Canyon with Emerald Pools, Weeping Rock, and the Narrows. The park is an IBA for breeding Mexican spotted owls, California condor, and peregrine falcon. Wild and Scenic Rivers included in the park are listed in the WSR section. Ecoregion NA 1304.

XII.  Federal Recreation Lakes

Bartlett Dam and Reservoir, Bureau of Reclamation, Arizona (location 36 on map). Located on the Verde River in the Tonto National Forest, the reservoir is just north of the Phoenix metropolitan area. Ecoregion NA503.

Glen Canyon Dam and Lake Powell, Bureau of Reclamation, Arizona-Utah (26). See Glen Canyon National Recreation Area in National Park system.

Horse Mesa Dam and Apache Lake, Bureau of Reclamation, Arizona (13). This dam and reservoir is located on the Salt River in the Tonto National Forest 65 miles east of Phoenix. The Four Peaks Wilderness is on the north shore. Ecoregion NA503.

Horseshoe Dam and Reservoir, Bureau of Reclamation, Arizona (37). Located on the Verde River in the Tonto National Forest, the reservoir upstream of Barlett Reservoir in the Phoenix metropolitan area. Ecoregion NA503.

Huntington North Dam, Bureau of Reclamation, Utah (38). This 240-acre irrigation lake on Huntington Creek is in the San Rafael watershed of the Colorado Plateau. Huntington State Park provides recreation facilities. Ecoregion NA1304.

Theodore Roosevelt Dam and Reservoir, Arizona (11). This dam in the Tonto National Forest 85 miles east of Phoenix creates a 17,000-acre reservoir when full. Ecoregion NA503.

XIII.  National Trail System

Arizona National Scenic Trail (NST), Arizona. Extending 800 miles from Mexico to Utah, the trail crosses the Vermillion Cliffs NM, Kaibab NF, Grand Canyon NP, Coconino NF, Tonto NF, Four Peaks Wilderness, Superstition Wilderness, Coronado NF, Oracle State Park, Saguaro NP, and Coronado National Memorial. Ecoregions NA302, 503, 1303, 1304, 1310.

Aspen Spring National Recreation Trail (NRT), Hualapai Mountain Park, Mohave County, Arizona (location 39 on map). This ten-mile trail offers spectacular views and winds among an aspen forest, at an elevation range from 6,200 to 8,200 feet. Ecoregion NA1304 and 1305.

Benham NRT, Kaibab NF, Arizona (40). This four-mile trail begins south of Williams on county road 73 and reaches the summit of 9,000-foot Bill Williams Mountain. Ecoregion NA503.

Bill Williams Mountain NRT, Kaibab NF, Arizona (40). This four-mile trail begins in Williams at exit 161 on I-40 and reaches the summit of Bill Williams Mountain. Ecoregion NA503.

Black Canyon NRT, BLM Phoenix District, Arizona (14). This 80-mile trail from State Route 74 west of New River to the Prescott NF east of Mayer follows a route historically used for sheep herding. Ecoregions NA503 and NA1310.

Bright Angel NRT, Grand Canyon NP, Arizona (1). From the trailhead at Kolb Studio in Grand Canyon Village, this trail descends eight miles to the Colorado River. Ecoregion NA1304.

General George Crook NRT, Coconino and Sitgreaves NFs, Arizona (41). This is a 138-mile historic wagon road along the Mogollon Rim, from State Route 260 east of Camp Verde to the Rim Visitor Center on State Route 260 near Fort Apache. Spectacular views from the top of the 400-foot rim are offered. Ecoregion NA503.

Gooseberry Mesa NRT, BLM St. George Field Office, Utah (42). This is an 18-mile series of mountain biking trails to the southeast of Hurricane. Ecoregion NA1304.

Granite Mountain NRT, Granite Mountain Wilderness, Prescott NF, Arizona (43). This four-mile trail begins at Granite Basin Lake and climbs to the top of the 7,200-foot mountain, beginning in chaparral and ending in a ponderosa pine forest with a view of Prescott and the Bradshaw Mountains. Ecoregion NA 503

Highline NRT, Tonto NF, Arizona (41). This 50-mile trail has a western trailhead at State Route 87 and an eastern trailhead at State Route 260. It is known for views and rock formations at the foot of the Mogollon Rim. Part of the trail is used by the Arizona NST. Ecoregion NA503.

North Kaibab NRT, Grand Canyon NP, Arizona (1). From the trailhead at Bright Angel Point on the North Rim, this trail descends 14 miles to the Colorado River. Ecoregion NA503 and NA1304.

Parks NRT, Kaibab NF, Arizona (40). This one-half mile trail is located at the Parks Rest Area on I-40 ten miles west of Flagstaff. Ecoregion NA503.

Prescott Peavine NRT, City of Prescott, Arizona (43). This 5.5-mile rail-trail passes Granite Dells and Watson Lake north of Prescott. Watson and Willow Lakes, city watershed lakes accessible from the city’s trail system, are an IBA for waterfowl migration. Ecoregion NA503.

River NRT, Grand Canyon NP, Arizona (1). This two-mile trail in the bottom of the Grand Canyon connects the Bright Angel Trail with the cross-canyon North and South Kaibab Trails.

Sixshooter Canyon NRT, Tonto NF, Arizona (44). From the Icehouse CCC Campsite south of Globe, this trail ascends six miles to Pinal Peak in a ponderosa pine forest. Ecoregion NA503 and NA1303.

South Kaibab NRT, Grand Canyon NP, Arizona (1). This trail descends seven miles to the Colorado River from Yaki Point on the South Rim. Ecoregion NA1304.

Wilson Mountain NRT, Redrock-Secret Mountain Wilderness, Coconino NF, Arizona (45). Just to the north of Sedona is this five-mile trail at the south entrance to Oak Creek Canyon. The trail climbs 2,300 feet and offers views of Oak Creek Canyon, Sedona, Coffee Pot Rock, Capitol Butte, Sterling Canyon and the Verde Valley. Ecoregion NA503.

 

CONTINUED NEXT MONTH—National Wild and Scenic River System, National Wilderness Areas, state, local, and private sites in Colorado Plateau and Arizona Mountains west of 110th meridian