Tambora and Puting Peninsula

Largest historical volcanic eruption, world’s largest lizard, and synchronous fruiting

I. Map boundaries: 0 to 10 degrees South; 112 to 120 degrees East

II. Country (Provinces): Indonesia (Bali, Central Kalimantan, Central Sulawesi, East Java, East Kalimantan, East Nusa Tenggara [Southeast Islands], South Kalimantan, South Sulawesi, West Kalimantan, West Southeast Islands, West Sulawesi).

III. Highlights

A. Sumbawa

At Mount Tambora, on the island of Sumbawa, Indonesia, about 30 cubic kilometers of the upper part of the volcano is missing. This is because the largest and deadliest volcanic eruption in recorded history took place here, on April 10, 1815. The explosion was heard up to 2600 km away, and darkness lasted for up to two days within 600 km of the volcano. Due to a monsoon blowing from the east, most of the ash fall was west of the volcano, covering Sumbawa, Lombok, and East Java. The original height of the mountain exceeded 4300 m; today its height is 2850 m, about two-thirds of its original height. The Flores Sea was littered with large rafts of pumice (up to several km in width) mixed with ash and uprooted trees. Debris flows reached the ocean, creating a tsunami which traveled at 70 m/s and reached eastern Java in less than two hours. The ash depth on Lombok, more than 200 km west of Tambora, reached 60 cm. Because the ash reached the stratosphere, it spread worldwide in about three months, and persistent haze persisted through 1816. To Europeans and Americans, 1816 was the year without a summer. The weather was cold, with snow and frost in the summer, and the mean worldwide temperature dropped 0.4 to 0.7 degree C in 1816. There may also have been a monsoon failure in India in 1816. Approximately 88,000 people are known to have perished on Sumbawa and Lombok (Stothers 1984).

B. Borneo (Southeast)

On Borneo, the dominant trees are members of the Dipterocarpaceae, a plant family that produces single-seeded fruits within a one- to two-month period at irregular intervals. Synchronous seed production serves to satiate seed predators and promote successful reproduction. The periods of fruit production correspond to El Nino-Southern Oscillation events. In 2010, the first large mass fruiting event since 1998 took place. The presence of high, non-volcanic mountains in a tropical rainforest climate zone provides a wide variety of unique habitats promoting plant and animal diversity on land and in sea. In addition, Borneo has remained at tropical latitudes for most of its geologic history, which has promoted environmental stability. Borneo is home to 15,000 species of flowering plants, 34 percent of which are found nowhere else. It has 155 endemic tree species, 44 endemic mammals, and 37 endemic birds. It is a hotbed of scientific discovery, with three new species being discovered per month. Notable plants are the dipterocarp trees which dominate the lowland rainforests, Rafflesia, the world’s largest flower; and pitcher plants, of which there are 30 endemic species on Borneo. Many rainforests in the Indonesian portion are being converted to palm oil plantations. Southeastern Borneo, especially in the provinces of Central and East Kalimantan, notable orangutan preservation efforts take place at Samboja Lestari and Putting Peninsula (Tanjung Putting National Park).

C. Sulawesi

Sulawesi, across the Makassar Straight from Borneo, is part of Wallacia, where Asian and Australian fauna mix. The island itself has lush rainforest and terraced rice fields. The lush mountains are where Alfred Russell Wallace collected butterflies and formulated a theory of evolution at the same time Darwin was doing the same in England. Wallace’s line is a deep oceanic trench marking the plate boundary between Australia and Asia. This is a major biogeographic boundary; Wallacia has high plant and animal endemism. The boundary between Asian and Australian fauna is also between Bali and Lombok.

D. Komodo

South of Sulawesi, across the Flores Sea, Komodo Island and surrounding islands are home to the largest known monitor lizard, the Komodo dragon. While there is a tendency to sensationalize the large lizards, which have been known to eat people, the large lizard is actually an opportunistic predator. A national park protects the monitors, surrounding islands, and marine habitats of the islands between Sumbawa and Flores.

E. Lombok

After Tambora lost its top, Mount Rinjani assumed the position as the second highest mountain in Indonesia, at 12,224 feet. It last erupted in 2004 and is the highest mountain in the Wallacea biogeographic area. A national park and areas on the slopes are good areas to hike to waterfalls, wildflowers, and Hindu temples. Offshore are diving areas in the Gili Islands.

F. Bali

The native long-tailed macque is a privileged visitor to Hindu temples, where they are treated with tolerance. The monkeys at Sangeh Temple are noted for stealing items from tourists who feed them, while monkeys at other sites such as Pura Uluwatu and Alas Kedaton are less aggressive (Small 1994). The West Bali National Park is a coastal savanna while eastern areas and high mountains are covered with rainforest.

G. Java (East)

A continuous line of volcanoes, many of which are active and occasionally deadly, dominates the eastern portion of the island. The world’s largest acidic lake is at Ijen. However, these also harbor lush tropical forests, wildlife, and archeological sites at Hindu temples. A savanna at Baluran National park in the extreme east of the island provides wildlife viewing of large mammals.

H. Sumba (West)

Sumba is a non-volcanic island of low limestone hills and grasslands. Stone megaliths are present over much of the island, and endemic birds are found in remaining dry forest. The southwestern coast is known as a surfer’s paradise.

I. Flores (West)

Only a small part of this volcanic island is shown. However, in this western area is a volcano with a crater lake and reserves that harbor endemic birds.

J. Indonesian Throughflow

Surface winds in the tropical Pacific flow from east to west, leading warm water to accumulate in the western Pacific. The deep ocean trench of the Makassar Straight adjacent to Sulawesi carries a major ocean current that flows between the Pacific Ocean and the Indian Ocean, known as the Indonesian Throughflow (ITF). A branch of the ITF also flows between Bali and Lombok, while another flows through the Flores Sea and exits into the Indian Ocean at the Timor Passage. The ITF influences the monsoons and El Nino-Southern Oscillation phenomena worldwide (Oppo and Rosenthal 2010).

IV. Ecoregions

A. Terrestrial Ecoregions

1. Tropical and Subtropical Moist Broadleaf Forests

a. Indo-Malayan Biome

IM 102. Borneo Lowland rain forests. The richest rainforest in the world, rivals New Guinea and the Amazon. There are at least 3,000 tree species and 2,000 orchids. The dominant plant family is the Dipterocarpaceae, of which 267 species are found in the ecoregion. Rare and unique animals are also present, including the world’s smallest squirrel and frog, orangutan and 12 other primates, small carnivores like the clouded leopard and sun bear, Sumatran rhinoceros, and Asian elephant. Found in Central Kalimantan, East Kalimantan, South Kalimantan, and West Kalimantan. Also found in islands of the Sunda Shelf to the south and east of Borneo.

IM 103, Borneo montane rain forests. An area in the mountains of Borneo above 1000 m in elevation, this is the most diverse montane flora on Earth. A large contiguous area of this ecoregion extends along the Malaysia-Indonesia border across central Borneo, and isolated mountain ranges such as the Hose and Dulit ranges in Sarawak and the Maliau and Tawau Hills in Sabah also are included. At elevations above 1,000 m, dipterocarp forests give way to oak, chestnut, myrtles, eucalyptus, and cloves. At elevations above 1,500 m, an rhododendron belt forms, which quickly gives way to an alpine meadow on the highest peaks. Epiphytes such as orchids are abundant, and pitcher plants are diverse. There are high-altitude swamp forests present. Found in Central Kalimantan and West Kalimantan.

IM 104, Borneo peat swamp forests. These mostly coastal dipterocarp forests are key habitat for the proboscis monkey. Large inland peat swamp forests are found in the Kapuas and Mahakam wetland areas. Found in Central Kalimantan, East Kalimantan, and West Kalimantan.

IM 112, Eastern Java-Bali montane rain forests. Found above 1,000 m in elevation, this ecoregion grades from evergreen rain forests in west to moist deciduous and more seasonal montane forest in the east. Evergreen forests are dominated by Artocarpus, Dysoxylum, and Lansiam, while deciduous forests are dominated by Homalium, Albizia, and Acacia. Montane zones have Lithocarpus, Quercus, laurels, and tree ferns. Above 1,800 m, mosses, Ericaceae, and Podocarpus are common. Above 3,000 m, Rhododendrum and Vaccinium are present. Found in Bali and East Java.

IM 113, Eastern Java-Bali rain forests. Predominantly moist deciduous forests with areas of semi-evergreen forests on the south coast and dry deciduous forests on the north coast. Lowland trees are Homalium, Albizia, and Acacia in deciduous forests; along with Artocarpus, Dysoxylium, and Lansiam in sem-evergreen forests. Linestone forests on Barung and Penida have a distinctive dipterocarp and Planchonia trees. Found in Bali and East Java, including Bawean Islands, Kangean Islands, Madura Island, and Penida Island.

IM 153, Southwest Borneo freshwater swamp forests. These wetland areas contain forests of Mallotus and tall legumes, along with long-tailed macaques, orangutans, and 360 birds. Found in East Kalimantan, South Kalimantan, and West Kalimantan.

IM 161, Sundaland heath forests. White sand soils support nutrient-poor scrub forests of dipterocarp trees on old beaches and sandstone plateaus and ridges. The nutrient-poor soils promote insectivorous plants like pitchers, sundews, and bladderwort. Found in Central Kalimantan, East Kalimantan, and West Kalimantan.

b. Australasia Biome

AA 123, Sulawesi lowland rain forests. These tropical evergreen forests are not dominated by one plant group like on Borneo. While there are seven species of dipterocarps, there are also palms and persimmons which can be abundant. The unique animal fauna (29 endemic mammals) includes a fruit-eating pig, dwarf buffalo, macaques, and cuscuses. The cuscuses are marsupials with Australian affinities. There are 70 endemic birds. Karst and serpentine areas have their own endemic species. Pitcher plants are common understory plants in this forest. Found in Central Sulawesi, South Sulawesi, and West Sulawesi. Also found on islands in the Flores Sea to the south of Sulawesi.

AA 124, Sulawesi montane rain forests. At elevations above 1,000 m, oaks, chestnuts, and conifers are common, along with epiphytic orchids. There are 33 endemic mammals and 44 endemic birds. Found in Central Sulawesi, South Sulawesi, and West Sulawesi.

2. Tropical and Subtropical Dry Deciduous Forests

AA201, Lesser Sundas deciduous forests. This predominantly dry forest region contains areas of semi-evergreen, moist deciduous, dry deciduous, and savanna vegetation. Moist deciduous trees include Tamarindus and Sterculia, while dry deciduous trees include Protium, Schleichera, Tabernaemontana and Bauhinia. Dry evergreen forests contain Albizia, Chionanthus, and Prunus. The southwest hills of Lombok and Sumbawa contain dipterocarp trees. Above 1,000 m, Euphorbiaceae dominate dry deciduous forests while other wetter montane forests contain Podocarpus, Engelhardia, and orchids. There are five endemic mammals and 29 endemic birds, and the world’s largest lizard, the Komodo monitor, on Komodo, Padar, Rinca, Motang, and Flores Islands. Found in East Southeast Islands and West Southeast Islands, including Lombok, Sumbawa, Moyo, Komodo, Rinca, and Flores Islands.

AA 203, Sumba deciduous forests. This is mostly a grassland and savanna ecosystem; however, moist lowland evergreen forests are found in the southern coastal areas. An endemic sundew is found in the sasvannas, and the island has seven endemic birds. Found on Sumba Island in the East Southeast Islands Province.

3. Mangrove

IM 1405, Sunda Shelf mangroves. The most biologically diverse mangrove forests in the world are habitat for proboscis monkeys. Found in Central Kalimantan, East Kalimantan, and South Kalimantan.

B. Freshwater Ecoregions of the World

1. Southern Asia Region

a. Tropical and Subtropical Coastal Rivers

737. Indian Ocean Slope of Sumatra and Java. Found off East Java coast.

740. Central and Eastern Java. Includes drainages to north coast of Java; also Bawean, Madura, and Kangean Islands.

741. Kapuas. Found in West Kalimantan.

745. Eastern Borneo. Found in East Kalimantan from Equator south to Adang Bay.

746. Southeastern Borneo. Found in Central Kalimantan, East Kalimantan and South Kalimantan south of Adang Bay.

748. Lesser Sunda Islands. Bali, Lombok, Sumbawa, Flores, and Sumba.

749. Sulawesi. Found in Central Sulawesi, South Sulawesi, and West Sulawesi.

b. Montane Freshwater

743. Borneo Highlands. Found in Central Kalimantan and West Kalimantan (see terrestrial ecoregion 103 on attached map).

C. Marine Ecoregions of the World

1. Central Indo-Pacific Realm, Sunda Shelf Province

117. Sunda Shelf/Java Sea. Found on Sunda Shelf between Borneo and Java.

2. Central Indo-Pacific Realm, Java Transitional Province

119. Southern Java. Found from Alas Purwo westward including Barung and Sempu Islands.

3. Central Indo-Pacific Realm, Western Coral Triangle Province

128. Sulawesi Sea/Makassar. Found along the coast of Sulawesi and East Kalimantan south to Laut Island; also includes areas adjacent to islands in Makassar Straight and Flores Sea.

132. Lesser Sunda. Found along coast of Bali, Lombok, Sumbawa, Flores, and Sumba.

V. World Heritage Site

Komodo National Park, East Nusa Tenggara (Southeast Islands), including Komodo, Rinca, and adjacent islands. Noted species are the famous monitor lizard, the orange-footed scrubfowl, an endemic rat, yellow-crested cockatoo, Flores crow, Flores green pigeon, and Timor deer. In the seas are coral reefs with 1,000 species of fish, 260 species of coral, and 70 species of sponges. Also a Biosphere Reserve and Important Bird Area. Terrestrial ecoregion AA201 and marine ecoregion 132.

VI. Biosphere Reserves

Komodo National Park (see World Heritage Sites above)

Lore Lindu National Park, Central Sulawesi. Approximately 400 granite monoliths of humans, pots, and stone plates, carved from 3000 BC to 1300 CE. Lowland rain forests have Mussaendopsis, Dysoxylum, Ficus, and Myristica. Montane forests have Leptospermum, Rapanea, and Myrsine. An Important Bird Area for maleo, snoring rail, blue-faced rail, yellow-crested cockatoo, Sulawesi golden owl, and Sulawesi eared nightjar. Ecoregions AA123 and AA 124.

Puting Peninsula National Park (Tanjung Puting), Central Kalimantan. This complex mosaic of swampy terrain, including freshwater swamp, lowland rainforest with dipterocarps, and peat swamp forest is known for its long-term orangutan research. Tours of the park are by houseboats. Wildlife includes the proboscis monkey, orangutan, clouded leopard, sun bear, and walking mudskippers. The multitude of habitats make this an Important Bird Area for Oriental darter, black-crowned night heron, little egret, great egret, and purple heron. At Camp Leakey, an orangutan research site for 40 years managed by Orangutan Foundation International, orangutans that have been orphaned or captured in surrounding palm oil plantations are rehabilitated and released. IM Ecoregions 102, 104, 153, 161, and 1405.

VII. Other Sites

Agung (Paramount), Bali. A complex of 23 Hindu temples is found on the south side of this 10,000-foot mountain. Also terraced rice patties, waterfalls, and lava flows can be seen. Ecoregion IM 112.

Alas Purwo National Park, East Java. An Important Bird Area. Mangrove, savanna, and lowland forest habitat. A limestone peninsula has caves and waterfalls. Wildlife includes banteng, green peacocks, lesser adjutant, Javan hawk-eagle, deer, wild dogs, and jungle fowl. Beaches are among the best in the world for surfers. Ecoregion IM113.

Anakalang, Sumba, East Southeast Islands. Noted for stone megaliths. Ecoregion AA203.

Arjuna-Lalijiwo Nature Reserve, East Java. This volcano reserve contains alpine meadows and two peaks; it is the last untouched mountain forest of eastern Java. On the mountain slopes are a tea estate, Purwodadi Botanical Garden, and agrotourism venture. The last volcanic eruption was 1952. The site includes the Tahura Radan Soerjo Important Bird Area for Javan hawk-eagle. Ecoregion IM 113.

Baka-Raya (Bukit Baka-Bukit Raya) Mountains National Park, Central Kalimantan and West Kalimantan. This park protects montane forests, waterfalls, and Rafflesia plants. It is an Important Bird Area for wattled pheasant and straw-headed bulbul. Ecoregions IM 102 and IM 103.

Baluran National Park, East Java. An Important Bird Area. Savanna habitats with acacia trees harbor banteng, deer, monkey, pigs, leopards, green peafowl, Java hawk-eagle, black-winged starling, jungle fowl, hornbills, and bee-eaters. Baluran volcano has a horseshoe-shaped crater. Ecoregion IM 113.

Bantimurung, South Sulawesi. This area of scenic waterfalls is famous for butterflies. Nearby are the Gua Leang Leang caves with ancient paints made 8,000 to 30,000 years ago. Ecoregions AA 123 and AA 124.

Barung Island Nature Reserve, East Java. A limestone island surrounded by high cliffs. Ecoregion IM 113.

Batar Mountain, Bali. This volcano erupted in 2000. Ecoregion IM 112.

Batukaru Native Reserve, Bali. An Important Bird Area. Endemic birds, mammals and trees are found on this mountain, which is accessible from a Hindu temple on the south side. Ecoregion IM 112.

Bawean Game Reserve, East Java. This island in the Java Sea between Borneo and Java is known for endemic Bawean deer, a crater lake, hot springs, and waterfalls. Coral reefs surround the island. Terrestrial Ecoregion IM 113 and marine ecoregion 117.

Beratus Mountains, East Kalimantan. This Important Bird Area for crestless fireback is an orangutan release area. Ecoregion IM102.

Bratan Lake, Bali. This hiking area contains coffee plantations, archaeological sites, and the Bali Botanical Garden. Bratan volcano has three caldera lakes and has been developed for geothermal electricity. Ecoregion IM 112.

Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park, East Java. A new caldera formed inside a larger and more ancient caldera. The Tengger Sand Sea has five volcanoes, including Bromo and Tengger. The last eruption was 2004. Semeru is the highest peak and most active and dangerous volcano in Java. It has been in continuous eruption since 1967. This is an Important Bird Area for Javan hawk-eagle. Ecoregion IM113.

Coral Peninsula, Central Sulawesi. Noted as a good snorkeling area. Ecoregion AA123 and marine ecoregion 128.

Dodo Jarangpusang, Sumbawa, West Southeast Islands. This Important Bird Area for the Flores green pigeon is a lowland semi-evergreen forest. Ecoregion IM 201.

Gili Air-Meno-Terawangan Marine Park, off Lombok, West Southeast Islands. Three islands known for diving to coral reefs. Terrestrial ecoregion AA201 and marine ecoregion 132.

Hyang-Argapuro, East Java. This strongly eroded 10,000-foot volcano is dissected by valleys up to 1,000 feet deep. Hyang Plateau is an Important Bird Area for green peafowl and Javan hawk-eagle. Ecoregion IM112.

Ijen-Merapi-Maelang Nature Reserve, East Java. The volcanic cones of Ijen, Merapi and Raung dominate the area. Ijen has a turquoise-colored sulfur lake, the world’s largest acidic lake. Raung last erupted in 2008. This is an Important Bird Area for white-faced partridge, green peafowl, Javan hawk-eagle and Javan scops-owl. Ecoregion IM112.

Kaget Island Nature Reserve, South Kalimantan. Two islands are a preserve for proboscis monkey. Ecoregion IM 1405.

Kahayan Forest, Central Kalimantan. This swamp forest is an Important Bird Area for large green pigeon, Storm’s stork, and lesser adjutant. Ecoregion IM153.

Kangean Islands, East Java. An archipelago with 30 islands; limestone habitats have caves harboring 15 bat species. The area supports natural gas drilling. Ecoregion IM 113.

Kapoposang Nature Recreation Park, off South Sulawesi. An archipelago in the Makassar Straight. Terrestrial Ecoregion AA123 and marine ecoregion 128.

Kawi-Kelud, East Java. This four-mountain complex is an Important Bird Area for Javan hawk-eagle. Kelud volcano last erupted in 2008, and has been the site of some of Indonesia’s most deadly eruptions. The ejection of water from a crater lake has caused pyroclastic flows and lahars. Ecoregion IM 112.

Kodi, Sumba, East Southeast Islands. A surfing area noted for megalithic tombs on land. Terrestrial ecoregion AA203 and marine ecoregion 132.

Kuta Gerupa Bay, Lombok, West Southeast Islands. Seagrass beds harbor dugong. Marine ecoregion 132.

Lamongan, East Java. This area has 27 maars with crater lakes, 60 cinder cones, and spatter cones. The last eruption was 1898. Ecoregion IM 112.

Latimojong Mountains, South Sulawesi. This Important Bird Area is noted for Lompobatang flycatcher. Ecoregion AA124.

Lemba Palu (Hammer Valley), Central Sulawesi. An Important Bird Area for grey imperial-pigeon and yellow-crested cockatoo. Ecoregion IM 123.

Lembongan Island, Bali. A beach resort for surfers, snorkelers, and hikers. Ecoregion IM 112.

Limon-Wilis Mountains, East Java. These mountains are an Important Bird Area for Javan hawk-eagle. Ecoregion IM 112.

Lompobattang Mountain, South Sulawesi. This is an Important Bird Area for the Lompobattang flycatcher, a critically endangered, limited range species. Ecoregion AA124.

Lurus, East Java. A volcano on the northern coast of Java. Ecoregion IM 113.

Mahakam Delta, East Kalimantan. These mangrove swamps and mudflats are an Important Bird Area for lesser adjutant and Chinese egret. Ecoregion IM1405.

Malang Plain, East Java. This is a group of nine ash cones, maars, and volcanic plugs. Ecoregion IM112.

Mamasa Valley, West Sulawesi. A hiking area with stunning views, hot springs, waterfalls, and caves. Ecoregion AA124.

Mancong, East Kalimantan. This is a riverside virgin forest area. Ecoregion IM 104 and IM 161.

Mawas, Central Kalimantan. This is a 500,000-acre area to be managed by Borneo Orangutan Survival Foundation for conservation, through agreement with the Central Kalimantan government. This is a follow-up to the Central Kalimantan Peatlands Project, funded by the Dutch government from 2006 to 2008 to conserve peat forests by canal blocking and fire prevention. Ecoregions IM 104 and IM 153.

Manupeu Tanah Daru National Park, Sumba, East Southeast Islands. The last remaining lowland semi-deciduous forest in Sumba steeply rises from sea level to 600 m elevation. This park protects nine species of endemic birds, seven endemic butterflies, and four endemic reptiles in the last lowland monsoon forest in Sumba. The park is an Important Bird Area for Sumba buttonquail, red-naped fruit dove, and Sumba hornbill. Ecoregion AA203.

Mbeliling, Nggorang Bowisie, and Wae Wuul Nature Recreation Park, Flores, East Southeast Islands. In habitats ranging from lowland forest to grassland on Flores, these three Important Bird Areas harbor Wallace’s hanging parrot, Flores monarch, and Flores crow. Terrestrial ecoregion AA201 and marine ecoregion 132.

Melak, East Kalimantan. This is an orchid reserve area along the Mahakam River. Ecoregion IM 102.

Meratus Mountains, South Kalimantan. An Important Bird Area for mountain barbet, large hawk-cuckoo, Temminck’s babbler, white-crowned forktail, and Everett’s white-eye. Ecoregion IM 102.

Meru Betiri National Park, East Java. Coastal rainforest with Rafflesia plants, leopards, banteng, pangolins, and nesting sea turtles. Beaches on the south coast have gray sand. Terrestrial wildlife inclues leopard, pig, giant black squirrel, and civet. An Important Bird Area for white-faced partridge, green peafowl, Javan hawk-eagle, and Java sparrow. Terrestrial ecoregion IM113 and marine ecoregion 119.

Middle Mahakam Wetlands (Lahan Basah Mahakam Tengah), East Kalimantan, Indonesia. An Important Bird Area containing swamp forest with three large lakes harboring terns, herons, and storks. IM Ecoregions 102, 104, 153, and 161.

Moyo Island Marine Recreation Park, West Southeast Islands. A dry savanna with thorn trees harbors wild pigs, deer and megapode birds. This is an important Bird Area for yellow-crested cockatoo and lesser adjutant. A luxury nature camp is on the island. Terrestrial ecoregion AA201 and marine ecoregion 132.

Muara Pahu, East Kalimantan. The Conservation Foundation for Rare Aquatic Species (Yasan Konservasi RASI) is developing a 70-km long conservation area centered on Muara Pahu. The river in this stretch is prime habitat for freshwater dolphins. A cruise along the Mahakam River also reveals monkeys, macaque, gibbons, leopards and hornbills. Ecoregion IM 153.

Negara Valley, Central Kalimantan. A swampy Important Bird Area with lakes and floodplain habitats, known for Javan pond heron, rails, moorhen, terns, ibis, and lesser adjutant. Ecoregions IM 104 and IM 153.

Nihiwatu, Sumba, East Southeast Islands. A surfing area where the film Green Iguana was filmed. Terrestrial ecoregion AA203 and marine ecoregion 132.

Olet Sangenges Mountain, Sumbawa, West Southeast Islands. The highest mountain in Sumbawa is also an Important Bird Area. Ecoregion AA 201.

Panataran, East Java. Known for Hindu temples dating from 1200 CE. Ecoregions IM 112 and IM 113.

Pararawen Reserve, Central Kalimantan. A project of the Kalaweit Foundation, this is a gibbon rehabilitation center. Ecoregion IM 102.

Pasir Putih, Besar Mountain, and Ringgit Mountain, East Java. This Important Bird Area is a monsoon forest with green peafowl. Ecoregion IM 112 and IM 113.

Pemuteran, Bali. This is noted for a diving resort and a sea turtle hatchery and protection program. Marine ecoregion 132.

Penanggungan, East Java. The slopes of this volcano are notable for the presence of 81 Hindu temples, monuments, and sacred bathing places. The last eruption was 200 CE. Ecoregion IM 112 and IM 113.

Penida Island, Bali. This mostly arid island is known for a limestone plateau with cliffs, caves, and waterfalls. It is also an Important Bird Area for yellow-crested cockatoo. Ecoregion IM 113.

Pleihari Martapura Wildlife Reserve, South Kalimantan. The southern and western slopes of the Meratus Mountains contain grasslands, montane forest, and lowland dipterocarp forest among gorges and waterfalls. The area is rich in orchids and harbors six species of primates. Ecoregion IM 102.

Pleihari Tanah Laut Wildlife Reserve, South Kalimantan. A coastal preserve for mangroves and swamp forest. Ecoregions IM 153 and IM 1405.

Poronumbu, Sumba, East Southeast Islands. This forested area in Sumba has high bird diversity and is an IBA for red-naped fruit dove, yellow-crested cockatoo, and Sumba hornbill. Ecoregion AA203.

Rinjani National Park, West Southeast Islands. The second tallest active volcano in Indonesia, at 12,224 feet, and the highest mountain in Wallacea, contains a caldera lake. Located on Lombok, savanna is found at lower elevations and a rainforest grows near the top. An endemic civet species is also found here. The mountain is an Important Bird Area for yellow-crested cockatoo, chestnut-backed thrush, and Flores green pigeon. Ecoregion AA201.

Samarinda-Balikpapan Forest, East Kalimantan. This area with includes the Wanariset orangutan research center, is an Important Bird Area for crestless fireback, Bornean bristlehead, striped wren-babbler, and flycatchers. Ecoregion IM161.

Samboja Lestari, East Kalimantan. The Borneo Orangutan Survival Foundation has funded a project to restore rainforest on a 2,000-ha tract near Balikpapan. The restoration involves 1600 species of trees, 137 bird species, orangutans, and sun bears. Human-use zones ringing the site involve acacia for timber and sugar palms for marketable sap. Cash crops grown among the trees include ginger, papayas, cocoa, and chiles. Ecoregion IM 161.

Sangeang Island, West Southeast Islands. This volcano on an island off of Sumbawa last erupted in 1999. Ecoregion AA201.

Sebangau National Park, Central Kalimantan. This area contains peat forests and a large population of orangutans. Ecoregions IM 104 and IM 153.

Selah Legium Protection Forest, Sumbawa, West Southeast Islands. Species found in this Important Bird Area are the russet-backed jungle flycatcher, Flores green pigeon, yellow-crested cockatoo and 19 other restricted range birds. Ecoregion AA201.

Sempu Island and Lenggasma Bay Nature Reserve, East Java. This Important Bird Area has green peafowl and Javan hawk-eagle. The off-shore island has freshwater lakes. Terrestrial ecoregion IM 113 and marine ecoregion 119.

Sesanot Forest Park, Lombok, West Southeast Islands. High elevation cool forests on the slopes of Mount Rinjani. Ecoregion AA201.

Solo Delta, East Java. This mangrove area and Important Bird Area is noted for the milky stork, lesser adjutant, Asian dowitcher and Sunda coucal. Ecoregion IM 113.

Sotonda Island Protected Area, West Southeast Islands. This top of an emerging volcano is vegetated with a dry monsoon forest. A crater lake is in the volcanic crater. Terrestrial ecoregion AA201.

Sumanep, Madura Island, East Java. This mangrove-dominated Important Bird Area hosts a big population of the milky stork, as well as dugongs in the sea. Terrestrial ecoregion IM 113 and marine ecoregion 117.

Surabaya East Coast, East Java. This coastal Important Bird Area is a feeding area for migratory birds such as black-winged stilt, Mongolian plover, Asian dowitcher, and great egret. Terrestrial ecoregion IM 113 and marine ecoregion 117.

Takapala, South Sulawesi. A scenic waterfall set amid rice fields. Ecoregion AA123.

Taliwang Recreation Park, Sumbawa, West Southeast Islands. This wetland is an Important Bird Area for milky stork and other waterbirds. Terrestrial ecoregion AA201 and marine ecoregion 132.

Tambora Wiildlife Reserve and Hunting Park, West Southeast Islands. Besides the site of history’s largest explosive eruption (see island highlights), forests are dominated by Duabanga moluccana and the volcano is an Important Bird Area for yellow-crested cockatoo. The last eruption was 1967. Terrestrial ecoregion AA201.

Tana Toraja, South Sulawesi. This mountainous hiking area is visited for unique cultural experiences related to elaborate funeral ceremonies. Cascading rice fields, precipitous cliffs, and ancient hanging graves are viewed. Ecoregion AA124.

Tempe Lake, South Sulawesi. A shallow wetland and lake noted for bird life; it is an Important Bird Area for yellow-crested cockatoo. Ecoregion AA123.

Tirta Gangga, Bali. This is a mountainous hiking area known for scenic views. Ecoregion IM 112.

Ubud, Bali. Noted for fine arts, dance, and music, this scenic hiking area noted for ancient monuments to 11^th century Balinese royalty and other archaeological sites. Ecoregion IM112.

Wai Sano, Flores, East Southeast Islands. This volcano on west Flores contains a large caldera lake. On the slopes of the volcano is the Sano Nggoang Important Bird Area, which is noted for Flores monarch and Flores crow. Ecoregion AA201.

West Bali National Park, Bali. An Important Bird Area. This park of coastal savanna with deciduous trees protects the Bali starling and Balinese cattle, a wild species, as well as several species of primates. It is a migration route for the Oriental honey-buzzard, Japanese sparrowhawk, and Chinese goshawk. Ecoregion IM 113.

Yawila, Sumba, East Southeast Islands. The highest peak and wettest area on Sumba supports red-naped fruit dove, yellow-crested cockatoo, and Sumba hornbill. Ecoregion AA 203.

VIII. References

Abell, Robin and 27 others. 2008. Freshwater Ecoregions of the World: A New Map of Biogeographic Units for Freshwater Biodiversity Conservation. Bioscience 58:403-414.

(accessed 11/7/10).

Emma Beare, ed. 2006. 501 Must-Visit Natural Wonders. Bounty Books. (Komodo National Park).

BirdLife International. 2010. BirdLife’s Online World Bird Database. Accessed 29/11/2010 at http://www.birdlife.org/

Borneo Orangutan Survival Foundation. http://www.orangutan.or.id/home (accessed 12/26/10).

Brubaker, Bill. 2010. Mission Orangutan. Smithsonian 41(8):36-45 (December 2010).

Central Kalimantan Peatlands Project. http://www.ckpp.org/ (accessed 12/26/10).

Curran, L.M. et al. 1999. Impact of El Nino and Logging on Canopy Tree Recruitment in Borneo. Science 286:2184-2188.

Garbutt, Nick. 2006. Wild Borneo. MIT Press.

Ildos, Angela S. and Bardelli, Giorgio G. 2001. Great National Parks of the World. AAA Publishing. (Komodo National Park).

Indonesian Forest Department. Information on national parks. www.dephut.go.id/ (accessed 11/7/10).

Indonesia Traveling Over Land, By Sea, and the National Parks. http://www.indonesiatraveling.com/index.htm (accessed 12/26/10).

Kalaweit Foundation. http://www.kalaweit.org/index_eng.php (accessed 12/26/10).

Kettle, Chris J. et al. 2010. Mass Fruiting in Borneo: A Missed Opportunity. Science 330:584.

Komodo National Park. http://www.komodonationalpark.org/ (accessed 12/26/10).

Kraus, Eric. 1983. A Weather Anomaly. Science 220:848-849. Review of Volcano Weather: The Story of 1816, the Year without a Summer. Henry Stommel and Elizabeth Stommel. Seven Seas Press, 1983.

Normile, Dennis. 2010. Saving Forests to Save Biodiversity. Science 329:1278-1280.

Normile, Dennis. 2009. Restoring a ‘Biological Desert’ on Borneo. Science 329:557.

Olson, David M., et al., 2001. Terrestrial Ecoregions of the World: A New Map of Life on Earth. BioScience 51:933-938.

Oppo, Delia W. and Yair Rosenthal. 2010. The Great Indo-Pacific Communicator. Science 328:1492-1493.

Orangutan Foundation International. http://www.orangutan.org/ (accessed 12/26/10).

Reef Seen Aquatics. http://www.reefseenbali.com/ (accessed 12/29/10).

Riley, Laura and William. 2005. Nature’s Strongholds. Princeton University Press. (Meru Betiri, Baluran, Putting, Komodo, West Bali, and Sumba).

Rosi, Mauro, Paolo Papale, Luca Lupi and Mario Stopopato. 2003. Volcanoes. Firefly Books.

Rowthorn, Chris, Muhammed Cohen, and China Williams. 2007. Borneo. Lonely Planet Publications.

Schultz, Patricia. 2003. 1,000 Places to See Before You Die. Workman Publishing. (Bali, Lombok, Moyo, Tanya Toraja).

Small, Meredith. Macaque See, Macaque Do. Natural History, March 1994, pp. 8-11.

Smithsonian Institution, Global Volcanism Program. Volcanoes of the World. http://www.volcano.si.edu/world/find_regions.cfm (accessed 11/6/10).

Spalding, Mark D. and 14 others. 2007. Marine Ecoregions of the World: A Bioregionalization of Coastal and Shelf Areas. Bioscience 57:573-583.

Stothers, Richard B. 1984. The Great Tambora Eruption in 1815 and Its Aftermath. Science 224:1191-1198.

Vaisutis, Jusine et al. 2007. Indonesia. Lonely Planet Publications.

Walden, Rebecca, Jackum Brown, and David Brown. 2006. Asia. In 501 Must-Visit Destinations. Bounty Books. (Komodo National Park, Ubud, and Bromo).

Wassersug, Richard. 1982. Life of a Giant Lizard. Science 215:1607-1608. Review of The Behavioral Ecology of the Komodo Monitor. Walter Auffenberg. University Presses of Florida, 1981.

World Heritage List. http://whc.unesco.org/en/list (accessed 11/6/10).

UNESCO-MAB Biosphere Reserve Directory. http://www.unesco.org/mabdb/br/brdir/directory/database.asp (accessed 11/6/10).

Yasan Konservasi RASI (Conservation Foundation for Rare Aquatic Species of Indonesia). http://www.ykrasi.110mb.com/ (accessed 12/26/10).

Kapuas, Kinabalu, Tubbataha, and Victoria

A rainforest wetland, a rainforest mountain, tropical reefs, and big pitchers

A lost world: world center of plant diversity and world’s largest limestone cave system

I. Map boundaries: 0 to 10 degrees North; 112 to 120 degrees East

II. Countries (States, Regions, or Districts): Brunei, Abode of Peace; Indonesia (Central Kalimantan, Central Sulawesi, East Kalimantan, and West Kalimantan), Malaysia (Labuan, Sabah, and Sarawak), Philippines (Palawan, Tawi-Tawi), and Spratley Islands. The Spratley Islands are claimed by Brunei, China, Malaysia, Philippines, Taiwan, and Vietnam.

III. Overview

On the third largest island in the world, the presence of high, non-volcanic mountains in a tropical rainforest climate zone provides a wide variety of unique habitats promoting plant and animal diversity on land and in sea. Borneo is home to 15,000 species of flowering plants, 34 percent of which are found nowhere else. It is a hotbed of scientific discovery, with three new species being discovered per month. Notable plants are the dipterocarp trees which dominate the lowland rainforests, Rafflesia, the world’s largest flower; and pitcher plants, of which there are 30 endemic species on Borneo. Limestone rocks along the coastlines fronting the South China Sea have led to the development of karst features, including caves, which are especially notable in Sarawak and Palawan. Outside of the high mountains at Kinabalu and along the Malaysia-Indonesia border in Borneo, extensive areas of lowland rainforest are notable in throughout Borneo. The highest mountains are the high-elevation area in northern Borneo dominated by Mount Kinabalu, Trus Madi, and the Crocker Range. High mountains are found in other areas, including the Tawau Hills and Maliau Basin of Sabah, the extensive plateaus along the border between Indonesia and Malaysia, and in the isolated Hose and Dulit ranges. Spectacular caves are found at Mulu and Niah national parks in Sarawak and at Tabon on Palawan. The Indonesia portion includes two large freshwater wetlands associated with the Kapuas River and Mahakam River. Sulawesi, across the Makassar Straight from Borneo, is part of Wallacia, where Asian and Australian fauna mix.

North of Borneo is Palawan, which has unique rainforest flora and fauna. Palawan is home to the world’s largest pitcher plant, Nepenthes attenboroughii, discovered in 2009 on Mount Victoria. N. attenboroughii has pale yellow to light green pitchers that measure up to 30 by 16 cm. The species is found only in serpentine soils at the mountain peak. To the south on the same island, Mount Mantalingahan has its own endemic species of pitcher plant, one of 16 endemic species of pitchers on Palawan. Endemic animals include a bearcat, mousedeer, parrots, hornbills, and pheasants. Palawan is also known for pristine beaches, reef diving in Honda Bay, and waterfall touring. Offshore in the Sulu Sea are reefs of the diverse Coral Triangle, including Tubbataha Reef, a world heritage site. The entire Philippine province is managed as an international biosphere reserve.

Also to the north of Borneo, the South China Sea is dotted with reefs of the Spratley archipelago, while to the east islands in the Sulu Archipelago extend eastward. This is the Coral Triangle, a center of marine biodiversity.

IV. Ecoregions

Tropical and Subtropical Moist Broadleaf Forests

Indo-Malayan Biome

IM 102. Borneo Lowland rain forests. The richest rainforest in the world, rivals New Guinea and the Amazon. There are at least 3,000 tree species and 2,000 orchids. The dominant plant family is the Dipterocarpaceae, of which 267 species are found in the ecoregion. Rare and unique animals are also present, including the world’s smallest squirrel and frog, orangutan and 12 other primates, small carnivores like the clouded leopard and sun bear, Sumatran rhinoceros, and Asian elephant. Found in Brunei, Central Kalimantan, East Kalimantan, Tawi-Tawi (Mapun), Sabah, Sarawak, and West Kalimantan.

IM 103. Borneo montane rain forests. An area in the mountains of Borneo above 1000 m in elevation, this is the most diverse montane flora on Earth. A large contiguous area of this ecoregion extends along the Malaysia-Indonesia border across central Borneo, and isolated mountain ranges such as the Hose and Dulit ranges in Sarawak and the Maliau and Tawau Hills in Sabah also are included. At elevations above 1,000 m, dipterocarp forests give way to oak, chestnut, myrtles, eucalyptus, and cloves. At elevations above 1,500 m, an rhododendron belt forms, which quickly gives way to an alpine meadow on the highest peaks. Epiphytes such as orchids are abundant, and pitcher plants are diverse. There are high-altitude swamp forests present. Found in Central Kalimantan, East Kalimantan, Sabah, Sarawak, and West Kalimantan.

IM 104, Borneo peat swamp forests. These mostly coastal dipterocarp forests are key habitat for the proboscis monkey. Large inland peat swamp forests are found in the Kapuas and Mahakam wetland areas. Found in Brunei, East Kalimantan, Sarawak, and West Kalimantan.

IM 143, Palawan rain forests. These lowland evergreen dipterocarp rain forests have a short one- to three-month dry season. Some forest areas are deciduous during this period. The area is noted for endemic mammals including a tree squirrel and a rat. Found in Palawan, Bugsuk, and Balabac.

IM 148, South China Sea Islands. These 600 coral reef islands barely surface and are mostly devoid of vegetation but could support forest vegetation. Found in the Spratley Islands.

IM 153, Southwest Borneo freshwater swamp forests. The Kapuas and Mahakam wetland areas contain forests of Mallotus and tall legumes, along with long-tailed macaques, orangutans, and 360 birds. Found in East Kalimantan and West Kalimantan.

IM 156, Sulu Archipelago rain forests. These lowland moist rain forests have mostly been cleared. They have a distinct bird fauna compared to nearby areas of Borneo. Found on Tawi-tawi, Sibutu, and adjacent islands.

IM 161, Sundaland heath forests. White sand soils support nutrient-poor scrub forests of dipterocarp trees on old beaches and sandstone plateaus and ridges. The nutrient-poor soils promote insectivorous plants like pitchers, sundews, and bladderwort. Found in East Kalimantan, Sarawak, and West Kalimantan in coastal areas and around the Kapuas and Mahakam wetlands.

Australasia Biome

AA 123, Sulawesi lowland rain forests. Tropical evergreen forests with only seven dipterocarp species. The unique animal fauna includes a fruit-eating pig, dwarf buffalo, macaques, cuscuses, and highly endemic birds. Found in Central Sulawesi.

AA 124, Sulawesi montane rain forests. At elevations above 1,000 m, oaks, chestnuts, and conifers are common, along with epiphytic orchids. There are 33 endemic mammals and 44 endemic birds. Found in Central Sulawesi.

Montane Grasslands and Shrublands

IM 1001, Kinabalu Montane Alpine Meadows. This high-elevation rainforest in northeast Borneo contains a flora of 4,500 species, the richest in the world, along with 114 mammals and 180 birds. There are 78 species of figs and 750 orchid species, and unique gymnosperms. Found in Sabah.

Mangrove

IM 1405, Sunda Shelf Mangroves. Habitat for proboscis monkeys. Found in Brunei, East Kalimantan, Labuan, Sabah, and Sarawak.

V. Freshwater Ecoregions

Southern Asia Region

Tropical and Subtropical Coastal Rivers

741. Kapuas. Found in West Kalimantan.

742. Northwestern Borneo. Found in Brunei and Sarawak.

744. Northeastern Borneo. Found in East Kalimantan and Sabah, from the Padas River in Sabah to the Sesayap River in East Kalimantan.

745. Eastern Borneo. Found in East Kalimantan from the Kayan River south.

749. Sulawesi. Found in Central Sulawesi.

752. Mindanao. Found in Tawi-Tawi.

756. Palawan-Busuanga-Mindoro. Found in Balabac and Palawan.

Montane Freshwater

743. Borneo Highlands. Found in Central Kalimantan, East Kalimantan, Sabah, Sarawak, and West Kalimantan.

VI. Marine Ecoregions

Central Indo-Pacific Realm, South China Sea Province

114. South China Sea Oceanic Islands. Found in Spratley Islands.

Central Indo-Pacific Realm, Sunda Shelf Province

117. Sunda Shelf/Java Sea. Found along coast of Sarawak.

Central Indo-Pacific Realm, Western Coral Triangle Province

126. Palawan/North Borneo. Found along the coast of Brunei, Palawan, Sabah, and East Kalimantan north of Kutai National Park.

128. Sulawesi Sea/Makassar. Found along the coast of Sulawesi and East Kalimantan south of Kutai National Park.

VII. World Heritage Sites

Kinabalu National Park, Sabah, Malaysia. The highest mountain between the Himalayas and New Guinea, 4,095 m, Kinabalu provides the center of plant diversity in southeast Asia and harbors a diverse biota with high endemism. Half of all families of flowering plants are represented; notable plants are 1,000 orchid species, giant Rafflesia, the world’s largest moss to 1 m tall, rhododendrons, and pitcher plants. Of the 326 bird species found here, 23 are endemic. The world’s longest stick insect, Chan’s megastick, was discovered in forests here. An Important Bird Area. Ecoregion 1001.

Mulu Mountain National Park, Sarawak, Malaysia. Tropical karst area (25 miles wide) of deeply incised canyons, wild rivers, limestone pinnacles, and wild rivers. There are 17 vegetation zones and 3,500 species of plants, including 109 palm species. Within the 295 miles of cave passages is the largest-known cave chamber and longest known cave passage. There are peat swamp, dipterocarp, and montane forest areas. Mammals are sun bear, bats, tarsiers, macaques, and gibbons. The area along the Baram River is known as the Headhunters Trail. An Important Bird Area wih 262 species including hornbills and swiftlets. Ecoregions 102, 103, and 104.

Tubbataha Reefs Natural Park, Palawan Province, Philippines. The pristine coral reef contains the highest population density known of white tip reef sharks and seven breeding species of seabirds, boobies, and terns. An Important Bird Area. Found off of Palawan. Terrestrial ecoregion 143 and marine ecoregion 126.

VIII. Ramsar Sites

Danau Santarum National Park, West Kalimantan, Indonesia. An inland floodplain wetland with numerous lakes and connecting waterways, this site represents the last area of primary freshwater swamp forest in Kalimantan. Also present is peat swamp forest. Red arowana fish can be seen leaping out of the lakes. The protected area supports orangutan, false ghavial, Malayan sun bear, proboscis monkey, and estuarine crocodiles. An Important Bird Area known for breeding waterbird colonies. Ecoregions 102, 104, and 153.

Tubbataha Reefs Natural Park, Palawan. See description under World Heritage Sites.

IX. Biosphere Reserve

Palawan. The entire Philippine province of Palawan, including Tubbataha Reef World Heritage Site (above), is included in the biosphere reserve. Mount Victoria, Mount Mantalingahan, Honda Bay, Iwahig River, Tabon Caves, Rasa Island, Ursula Island, Bugsuk Island, and Balabac Island are shown on the map. Ecoregion 143.

X. Other points of interest

Balabac Island, Palawan Province, Philippines. An Important Bird Area noted for grey imperial pigeon, Philippine cockatoo, blue-headed racquet-tail, and Palawan hornbill. Ecoregion 143.

Baleh Headwaters, Sarawak, Malaysia. An Important Bird Area; ecoregion 103.

Bario and Kelabit Highlands. A trekking area, where hikers walk from longhouse to longhouse on mountain trails. Ecoregion 103.

Batang Ai National Park, Sarawak, Malaysia. A rainforest preserve managed by local people with orangutan, hornbills and gibbons. Ecoregions 102 and 161.

Batu Punggul, Sabah, Malaysia. A limestone pinnacle in the rainforest; caves. Ecoregion 102.

Belait Swamp Forest, Brunei. Forests of Shorea albida dominate the peat swamp forests in this area. The fanged pitcher plant has two appendages on the underside of the pitcher lid. An Important Bird Area. Ecoregion 104.

Betung Kerihun National Park, West Kalimantan, Indonesia. Lowland dipterocarp and montane oak-chestnut forest, rich in palms. The Muller Range on the border of West Kalimantan and Sarawak contains a diversity of waterfalls, limestone hills, and caves. Mammals are rhinos, leopards, orangutans, and bearcats. An Important Bird Area known for wattled pheasant, and Wallace’s hawk-eagle. Ecoregions 102 and 103.

Brunei Bay, Brunei, Sabah, and Sarawak. An Important Bird Area with mangroves which hosts migratory waterbirds, Storm’s stork, lesser adjutant, and Chinese egret. Ecoregion 1405 and marine ecoregion 126.

Buda National Park, Sarawak, Malaysia. A limestone peak 963 m high with extensive caves. An important bird area. Ecoregion 102.

Bukit Tiban National Park, Sarawak, Malaysia. A reforested rainforest at the headwaters of Nyalau and Timong rivers. Ecoregion 102.

Crocker Range National Park, Sabah, Malaysia. The largest protected area in Sabah and an Important Bird Area for endemic birds. Within the park is the Rafflesia Centre, which has trails to plants which have the world’s largest flowers. Ecoregions 102 and 1001.

Danum-Linau, Sarawak, Malaysia. An Important Bird Area for Bornean peacock-pheasant. Ecoregion 103.

Danum Valley Conservation Area, Sabah, Malaysia. This protected area operated by the Sabah Foundation contains the most important Old World rainforest scientific research center, the Danum Valley Field Centre. Mammals are rhinos, elephants, orangutans, mouse deer, pigs, leopards, and leopard cats. There are 275 known bird species, including nine endemics. A new bird species, the Spectacled Flowerpecker, was recently discovered in this forest. An Important Bird Area. Ecoregion 102 and 103.

Dulit Range, Sarawak, Malaysia. An Important Bird Area. Ecoregion 103.

Honda Bay, Palawan, Philippines. Known for reef diving and pristine beaches. Marine ecoregion 126.

Hose-Laga Mountains, Sarawak, Malaysia. An Important Bird Area; ecoregion 103.

Iwahig River, Palawan, Philippines. Known for firefly watching; managed by Iwahig Community Eco-Tourism Association. Ecoregion 143.

Kayan Mentarang National Park, East Kalimantan, Indonesia. Kayan is an extensive mountain plateau on the border between East Kalimantan and Sarawak. Known for sun bears, pangolins, and wild pig migrations. An Important Bird Area with Borneo endemic birds. Ecoregion 103.

Klias Peninsula, Sabah, Malaysia. An Important Bird Area with mangrove forest, freshwater swamp forest and peat swamp forest which hosts large populations of waterbirds. Also noted for firefly watching. The Klias River provides whitewater rafting. Ecoregions 102, 104, and 1405.

Kulamba Wildlife Reserve, Sabah, Malaysia. A coastal area with isolated hills, an Important Bird Area for wrinkled hornbill. Ecoregions 102 and 1405.

Kutai National Park, East Kalimantan, Indonesia. Known for rhinos, proboscis monkey, 300 birds, mangroves, rainforests, and orangutan. An Important Bird Area known for great-billed heron and lesser adjutant. Ecoregions 102, 161, and 1405.

Labuan Marine Park, Labuan, Malaysia. Three islets near Labuan are protected coral reefs for snorkeling. Ecoregion 1405.

Labuk Bay, Sabah, Malaysia. A private proboscis monkey sanctuary. Ecoregion 1405.

Ladan Hills, Brunei. An Important Bird Area. Ecoregions 102 and 104.

Lambir Hills National Park, Sarawak, Malaysia. A sandstone escarpment hosts dipterocarp forests and waterfalls. An Important Bird Area. Ecoregions 102 and 104.

Lanjak Entimau Wildlife Sanctuary, Sarawak, Malaysia. Virgin rainforest preserve, noted for pitcher plants. An Important Bird Area. Ecoregion 102.

Lankayan Island, Sabah, Malaysia. An offshore diving resort and part of the Sugud Islands Marine Conservation Area. Ecoregion 102.

Layang-Layang (Swallow Reef), Spratley Islands. A Navy base and diving resort created by the Malaysian armed forces; divers see hammerhead sharks, rays, and barracuda; an Important Bird Area for Asian great crested terns. Ecoregion 148.

Loagan Banut National Park, Sarawak, Malaysia. This peat swamp forest preserve with a large natural lake is known for a great diversity of birds and primates. An Important Bird Area. Ecoregion 104.

Long Bangum, East Kalimantan, Indonesia. An Important Bird Area with undisturbed lowland forest. Ecoregion 102.

Madai Caves, Sabah, Malaysia. Swiftlet nests are harvested for birds nest soup. Also archaeological sites. Ecoregion 102.

Middle Mahakam Wetlands (Lahan Basah Mahakam Tengah), East Kalimantan, Indonesia. An Important Bird Area containing swamp forest with three large lakes. Ecoregions 104 and 161.

Maliau Basin Conservation Area, Sabah, Malaysia. A saucer-shaped basin surrounded by cliffs to 1,900 m in height and managed by the Sabah Foundation is known as Sabah’s Lost World. There are 280 species of birds, with many endemics. An Important Bird Area. Ecoregion 103.

Mantanani Islands, Sabah, Malaysia. Three offshore islands with limestone bluffs and rocky shores, an Important Bird Area for pelagic species like frigatebirds. Ecoregion 102 and marine ecoregion 126.

Manuk Island, Tawi-Tawi Province, Philippines. An Important Bird Area with Philippine cockatoo and blue-winged racquet tail. Ecoregion 156.

Mount Mantalingahan Protected Landscape, Palawan, Philippines. The highest mountain in Palawan, stronghold of Palawan striped-babbler. Home of diverse rainforest flora, including Nepenthes mantalingajensis, an endemic species of pitcher plant. An Important Bird Area. Ecoregion 143.

Niah National Park, Sarawak, Malaysia. This archaeological park is the site of 40,000-year old human remains. Painted Cave contains wall paintings which depict the boat journey of the dead to the afterlife. Birds nest collectors harvest swiftlet nests for birds nest soup. An Important Bird Area. Ecoregion 102.

Padas Gorge, Sabah, Malaysia. A whitewater rafting area. Ecoregion 102.

Pasoso Island, Central Sulawesi, Indonesia. An Important Bird Area that harbors the grey imperial pigeon and yellow-crested cockatoo. Ecoregion 123.

Peradyan Forest Reserve, Brunei. Provides hiking in rainforest around two mountain peaks. Ecoregion 102.

Pulong Tao National Park, Sarawak, Malaysia. Funded by Japan and Switzerland, this biodiversity preserve in the Kelabit Highlands supports mixed dipterocarp forest and montane forest. Notable plants are a gymnosperm timber species, orchids, pitcher plants, gingers, and rhododendrons. An Important Bird Area. Ecoregion 103.

Rasa Island, Palawan, Philippines. Home of the endangered Philippine cockatoo and other endangered wildlife. Ecoregion 143.

Sabah Agricultural Park, Sabah, Malaysia. An orchid farm, along with tropical fruit. Ecoregion 102.

Sandakan Rainforest Park (Kebun Cima Forest Reserve), Sabah, Malaysia. The site of early botanical exploration includes 110 type speciments of plants, including the Nepenthes pitcher plants. Ecoregion 102.

Sangalaki Islands Marine Wildlife Reserve and Derawan Islands, East Kalimantan, Indonesia. A coral archipelago hosting sea turtles. A brackish lake on Kakaban Island is known for stingless jellyfish. Terrestrial ecoregion 102 and marine ecoregion 126.

Sangkulirang, East Kalimantan, Indonesia. An area of karst mountains and caves with subalpine birds. An Important Bird Area. Ecoregion 102.

Sebuku Sembakung National Park, East Kalimantan, Indonesia. Mangrove forests, peat forest, forested limestone hills hosting elephants and orangutan. An Important Bird Area. Ecoregions 102, 104, 161, and 1405.

Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Center and Kabili rainforest reserve, Sabah, Malaysia. Home to the primates and an Important Bird Area for oriental anhinga. Also includes the Rainforest Discovery Centre.

Seria Coast, Brunei. An Important Bird Area for crestless fireback and lesser adjutant. Ecoregion 104.

Sibutu and Tumindao Islands, Tawi-Tawi Province, Philippines. An Important Bird Area supporting Sulu archipelago endemics. Ecoregion 156.

Similajau National Park, Sarawak, Malaysia. Coastal preserve of mangroves and dipterocarp forest. Beach areas are known for dolphin viewing. An Important Bird Area. Terrestrial ecoregions 102 and 1405; marine ecoregion 117.

Siminul Island, Tawi-Tawi Province, Philippines. An Important Bird Area with Philippine cockatoo and blue-winged racquet tail. Ecoregion 156.

Sipidan Island, Sabah, Malaysia. Known for wall diving and called the world’s best by Jacques Cousteau. An underwater drop-off falls 2,800 feet. On land, the islands are an Important Bird Area for small island pigeons and frigatebirds. Ecoregion 102.

Sukao-Kinabatangan Wildlife Sanctuary, Sabah, Malaysia. A sustainable development area on the lower Kinabatangan River in Sabah, which includes the Gomantong Caves, noted for one million swiftlets. A forested floodplain that hosts 10 primates and 250 bird species. An Important Bird Area, noted for Storm’s stork and hornbills. Mammals are primates, elephants, and rhinos. Ecoregion 102.

Tabin Wildlife Reserve, Sabah, Malaysia. Virgin lowland dipterocarp forest and mud volcanoes; an Important Bird Area. Mammals are orangutans and other primates, elephants, rhinoceros, and buffalo. Ecoregion 102.

Tabon Caves, Palawan, Philippines. Over 200 caves and rockshelters, providing a continuous record of 50,000 years of human occupation, including human remains, burial jars,a nd jade ornaments. Managed by National Museum of the Philippines. Ecoregion 143.

Tasek Merimbun, Brunei. A heritage park and Important Bird Area. Ecoregion 102.

Tawau Hills National Park, Sabah, Malaysia. Noted for waterfalls, hot springs, and a volcanic landscape. Bombalai, Borneo’s only active volcano, is found here. An Important Bird Area. Ecoregions 102 and 103.

Tawi-Tawi Island, Tawi-Tawi Province, Philippines. A largely undeveloped island with some primary forest on a central ridge, harbors endemic birds of the Sulu Archipelago, including Sulu bleeding-heart, tawitawi brown dove, and blue-winged racquet-tail. An Important Bird Area. Ecoregion 156.

Tempasuk Plains, Sabah, Malaysia. A freshwater wetland and Important Bird Area that includes the Kota Belud Bird Sanctuary. Ecoregion 1405.

Tiga Marine Park, Sabah, Malaysia. Site of the first Survivor series; nearby Snake Island is a breeding ground for sea snakes. Ecoregion 102 and marine ecoregion 126.

Trus Madi Range, Sabah, Malaysia. The second largest mountain on Borneo is an Important Bird area for endemic birds; part of the northern highlands of Sabah with Mount Kinabalu and the Crocker Range. Ecoregion 1001.

Tun Sakaran Marine Park, Sabah, Malaysia. Eight volcanic islands with fringing coral reefs in Darvel Bay are the subject of a cooperative conservation project with the Marine Conservation Society and the UK government. Ecoregion 1002 and marine ecoregion 126.

Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park, Sabah, Malaysia. Five islands off of Kota Kinabalu offer beaches and snorkeling. Ecoregion 102 and marine ecoregion 126.

Turtle Islands Heritage Protected Area, Sabah, Malaysia and Tawi-Tawi, Philippines. A transboundary protected area for green and hawksbill sea turtles. Terrestrial ecoregion 102 and marine ecoregion 126.

Ulu Barito, Central Kalimantan, Indonesia. An Important Bird Area on the slopes of Muller Mountains. Ecoregion 103.

Ulu Telen, East Kalimantan, Indonesia. An Important Bird Area noted for mountain barbet, Hose’s broadbill, and Bornean whistler. Ecoregions 102 and 103.

Ulu Temburong National Park, Brunei. Noted for its extensive canopy walkway. An important bird area. Ecoregion 102.

Ursula Island Game Refuge and Bird Sanctuary, Palawan, Philippines. Set aside to protect imperial pigeons and rare birds, contains old growth lowland forest. Native birds are being affected by possibly non-native predatory snakes. An Important Bird Area. Ecoregion 143.

Usun Apau Plateau, Sarawak, Malaysia. An Important Bird Area for wattled pheasant. Ecoregions 102 and 103.

Mount Victoria, Palawan, Philippines. Undisturbed lowland and montane forests in the Victoria and Anepahan Ranges. Mount Victoria is noted for the world’s largest species of pitcher plant, Nepenthes attenboroughii. Ecoregion 143.

Wasan, Brunei. An Important Bird Area. Ecoregions 102 and 104.

XI. References

Abell, Robin and 27 others. 2008. Freshwater Ecoregions of the World: A New Map of Biogeographic Units for Freshwater Biodiversity Conservation. Bioscience 58:403-414.

Baker, Nick. Andulau Peat Swamp Forest. http://www.ecologyasia.com/html-loc/andulau.htm (accessed 11/7/10).

Emma Beare, ed. 2006. 501 Must-Visit Natural Wonders. Bounty Books.

BirdLife International. 2010. BirdLife’s Online World Bird Database. Accessed 29/11/2010 at www.birdlife.org

Borneo Tour Giant. Information on national parks. www.borneotourgiant.com (accessed 11/7/10).

Conservation International. 2009. Mount Mantalingahan Protected Landscape Established. www.conservation.org/sites/gcf/fmg/articles/Pages/mount-mantalingahan.aspx (accessed 11/13/10).

Garbutt, Nick. 2006. Wild Borneo. MIT Press.

Ildos, Angela S. and Bardelli, Giorgio G. 2001. Great National Parks of the World. AAA Publishing. (Danum Valley).

Indonesian Forest Department. Information on national parks. www.dephut.go.id/

(accessed 11/7/10).

International Tropical Timber Organization, Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia. Pulong Tao (Our Forest) web site. www.itto-pulongtau.com (accessed 11/7/10).

Normile, Dennis. 2010. Saving Forests to Save Biodiversity. Science 329:1278-1280.

Olson, David M., et al., 2001. Terrestrial Ecoregions of the World: A New Map of Life on Earth. BioScience 51:933-938.

Palawan Council on Sustainable Development. www.pcsd.ph (accessed 11/13/10).

Pasyar Developmental Tourism. http://pasyarpalawan.tripod.com/pack.html (accessed 11/13/10). Iwahig firefly watching.

Pearce, K.G. 2006. The Flora of Pulong Tao National Park. ITTO Project PD224/03 Rev. 1(F): Transboundary Biodiversity Conservation—The Pulong Tao National Park, Sarawak, Malaysia. International Tropical Timber Organization, Sarawak Forest Department, and Sarawak Forestry Corporation. Available at www.itto-pulongtau.com

Philippines Coastal and Fisheries Information Center. www.oneocean.org/ambassadors/trackturtle/tihpa/index.html (accessed 11/13/10).

Riley, Laura and William. 2005. Nature’s Strongholds. Princeton University Press.

Robinson, Alastair S. et al. 2009. A spectacular new species of Nepenthes L. (Nepenthaceae) pitcher plant from central Palawan, Philippines. Botanical Journal of the Linnean Society 159:195-202.

Rowthorn, Chris, Muhammed Cohen, and China Williams. 2007. Borneo. Lonely Planet Publications.

Sabah Travel Guide. www.sabahtravelguide.com (accessed 11/7/10).

South East Asia Rainforest Research Programme. The Danum Valley Conservatoin Area. The Royal Society, UK. www.searrp.org/ (accessed 11/7/10).

Russell, Simon and Ann Delilkan. 1998. Into the Darkness. Earth Magazine, February 1998, pp. 72-77. (Mulu Mountain National Park).

Sandakan Rainforest Park. http://www.sandakanrfp.sabah.gov.my/ (Accessed 11/14/10).

Sarawak Forestry Department. Information on national parks. www.forestry.sarawak.gov.my (accessed 11/7/10).

Schultz, Patricia. 2003. 1,000 Places to See Before You Die. Workman Publishing. (Sipidan Island, Baram River, Mulu National Park).

Semporna Islands Project. www.sempornaislandsproject.com (accessed 11/14/10).

Smithsonian Institution, Global Volcanism Program. Volcanoes of the World. http://www.volcano.si.edu/world/find_regions.cfm (accessed 11/6/10).

Spalding, Mark D. and 14 others. 2007. Marine Ecoregions of the World: A Bioregionalization of Coastal and Shelf Areas. Bioscience 57:573-583.

Tabin Wildlife Resort. http://www.tabinwildlife.com.my/ (accessed 11/14/10).

Tubbataha Reefs Natural Park. www.tubbatahareef.org (accessed 11/7/10).

Wetlands International. Ramsar Sites Information Service. http://www.ramsar.wetlands.org/ (accessed 11/6/10).

World Heritage List. http://whc.unesco.org/en/list (accessed 11/6/10).

UNESCO-MAB Biosphere Reserve Directory. http://www.unesco.org/mabdb/br/brdir/directory/database.asp (accessed 11/6/10).

World Wide Fund for Nature-Malaysia. http://www.wwf.org.my/ (accessed 11/7/10) (Kinabatangun Wildlife Sanctuary).

Amery Oasis and Dome Argus

Coldest place on Earth, mountains buried in ice, and river gorges made by vanished rivers

I. Map Boundaries: 70 to 80 degrees South, 60 to 90 degrees East

II. Country: Antarctic Treaty Secretariat (Station operated by China at Dome Argus)

III. Overview

Amery Ice Shelf and Lambert Glacier occupy a deep rift valley, one of the most prominent bays or indentations in the solid wall of icy land and mountains that is East Antarctica. Lambert is the largest valley glacier in the world. Below the ice of the Amery Ice Shelf, a marine community thrives underneath 700 m of ice and over 1200 m of sea water. Drilling during 2005 into the ice shelf by the Census of Antarctic Marine Life indicates that sponges, fan worms, urchins, and sea snails are abundant.

To the west of the Amery Ice Shelf, the Prince Charles Mountains rise. Approximately 500 million years ago, the Prince Charles Mountains were joined with the western Ghats of India as part of one mountain range. The Amery Oasis, located just west of Amery Shelf, is an ice-free area with a river gorge from a now-vanished river. Coal seams contain fossilized tree remains.

East of Lambert Glacier is the Mawson Escarpment, an ice-free range, and further to the east are the Grove Mountains, which also contain nunatuks extending above the ice. More than 500 miles to the south is another buried mountain range, Gamburtsev. Topography of the Gamburtsev Mountains is similar to that of the European Alps. Dome Argus, on the ice at 13,000 feet, is above the Gamburtsevs and is also where the coldest recorded temperatures have been recorded, at minus 82.5 degrees C.

IV. Terrestrial Ecoregions

AN 1102, Maudlandia Antarctic Desert. Consists of the ice-free coastal fringes. Lichens and moss cushions grow on soil, with some algae on snow. Mean monthly temperatures exceed freezing for a month or less in the summer.

V. Marine Ecoregions

Southern Ocean Realm, Continental High Antarctic Province

224. East Antarctic Wilkes Land

VI. Points of Interest

Amery Oasis, Northern Prince Charles Mountains. An ice-free area west of the Amery Ice Shelf. Although frozen, Beaver Lake exhibits tidal fluctuations. To the west is Radok Lake, which is of unknown depth and drains into Beaver Lake via Pagradroma Gorge. The steep-walled gorge was produced by a now-vanished river. The Bainmedart Coal Measures consist of 110 seams of bituminous coal deposited at the Paleozoic-Mesozoic periods. The coal was deposited within alluvial settings dominated by north-flowing rivers. The presence of upright fossilized stumps indicates the coal was from local plants. There is extensive leaf fossil preservation of Glossopteris, a deciduous seed-bearing tree that may have grown in conditions similar to cypress today. Terrestrial ecoregion AN1102 and Marine Ecoregion 224.

Dome Argus. Located just to the south of the map area at an elevation of 13,000 feet, this is believed to be the coldest spot in Antarctica. The coldest ever was 82.5 degrees C below zero. China’s Kunlun Station is located nearby.

Gamburtsev Mountains. A two-mile deep layer of glacial ice covers mountains the size of the European Alps. The rugged topography of the mountain range under the ice suggests that the ice sheet formed quickly. At the bottom of the ice is liquid water. A map of the mountain range was completed during the 2008-2009 summer season.

Mount Harding and Grove Mountains, American Highland. Antarctic Specially Protected Area No. 168. Mount Harding extends 200 m above the ice, and the ice-free areas allow study of East Antarctic Ice Sheet fluctuations. Features of the preserve are cold desert soil, pools of water, and a crescent-shaped ridge of nunatuks. On the west side is a large blue-ice area, called Kunming Lake, cone-shaped pyramids, and wind-eroded rock formations.

VII. References

Antarctic Treaty Secretariat. Antarctic Protected Areas Database. http://www.ats.aq/devPH/apa/ep_protected_search.aspx?type=2&lang=e (Accessed March 7, 2010).

Antarctic Treaty Secretariat. Management Plan for Antarctic Specially Protected Area No. 168, Mount Harding, Grove Mountains, East Antarctica. www.ats.aq/documents/recatt/Att386_e.pdf (accessed September 25, 2010).

Antarctica’s Gamburtsev Province Project web page. www.ldeo.columbia.edu/res/pi/gambit/index.htm (accessed September 25, 2010).

Australian Antarctic Division. The Amery Oasis, Northern Prince Charles Mountains. www.antarctica.gov.au/living-and-working/stations/mawson/prince-charles-mountains/amery/

(accessed September 25, 2010).

Consortium for Ocean Leadership. Census of Marine Life Discoveries. Amery Ice Shelf. www.coml.org (accessed 5/15/10)

Kenrick, Paul and Paul Davis. 2004. Fossil Plants. Smithsonian Books, Washington, DC.

Olson, David M., et al., 2001. Terrestrial Ecoregions of the World: A New Map of Life on Earth. BioScience 51:933-938. Ecoregion map at http://www.nationgeographic.com/wildworld/terrestrial.html

Prince Charles Mountains, Lambert Glacier and Amery Ice Shelf North. 2004. Scale 1:2,000,000. Map Catalog 13112. Australian Antarctic Data Centre. http://data.aad.gov.au/aadc/mapcat/ (Accessed September 25, 2010).

Prince Charles Mountains, Lambert Glacier, and Amery Ice Shelf South. 2004. Scale 1:2,000,000. Map Catalog 13113. Australian Antarctic Data Centre. http://data.aad.gov.au/aadc/mapcat/ (Accessed September 25, 2010).

Siegert, Martin J. et al. 2005. A revised inventory of Antarctic subglacial lakes. Antarctic Science 17:453-460.

Spalding, Mark D. and 14 others. 2007. Marine Ecoregions of the World: A Bioregionalization of Coastal and Shelf Areas. BioScience 57:573-583.

Wilson, C.J.L. Antarctic Tectonics Website. School of Earth Sciences, University of Melbourne, Victoria, Australia. http://web.earthsci.unimelb.edu.au/antarctica

(accessed September 25, 2010).

Haughton, Napartulik, and Simirlik

Mars on Earth, where fish came ashore and mammals went back to the sea, a mummified forest, and a gull that nests on nunatuks

I. Map boundaries: 70 to 80 degrees North; 60 to 90 degrees West. The center of this area is about 2,000 miles north of Quebec City. This map contains ecoregion boundaries (terrestrial and marine), important bird area locations, national wildlife area locations, migratory bird sanctuary locations, river names, fiord names, fossil locations, and mine locations not found on atlas maps.

II. Countries: Canada (Nunavut-part of Qikiqtaaluk Region); Denmark (Qaasuitsup municipality of Kalaallit Nunaat, or Greenland)

III. Overview

If you start at Quebec City and head 2,000 miles north, you would reach the area of this map. This map area includes northern Baffin Island, eastern Devon Island, eastern Axel Heiberg Island, southern Ellesmere Island, and the Hayes Peninsula of Greenland. Ecologically, this is an area of arctic tundra. However, the Nature Conservancy and World Wildlife Fund ecoregions project has delineated the tundra into five different terrestrial ecoregions and six different marine ecoregions in this map area, based on vegetation and wildlife present.

Nests on Nunatuks

The ice only melts for a few months of the year, in good years. But the harsh climate and resulting lack of predators encourages waterfowl nesting throughout the area. Coastal cliffs of Greenland, Baffin, and other islands harbor nesting seabirds, often on high cliffs that front the ocean and provide additional predator protection. The rare and elusive ivory gull has perhaps the most unique nesting site—rocky mountaintops that stick up above the ice caps, known as nunatuks.

The area is not just known for its birds. Polar bears frequent the area, and marine mammals such as narwhals are found in the numerous inlets and sounds of the area. Arctic fox, musk ox, wolves, seals, whales, walrus, and arctic hares are common.

Mummified Forests

This area is also where fossil discoveries in recent years have added greatly to our views of climate change, plant adaptation, and evolution. Paleocene-age fossil forests (55 million years old) are found at Stenkul Fiord in southern Ellesmere Island. Here large metasequoia logs and tree stumps are still rooted in layers of coal. Eocene-age (34 to 50 million years in age) fossil forests are found at Strathcona Fiord in central Ellesmere. Along with the the trees are fossil alligators, tortoises, primates, and tapirs. In the far northwest corner of the map is Napartulik on Axel Heiberg Island, where a mummified metasequoia-dominated fossil forest of 34 to 55 million years in age can be found. This forest is not mineralized, meaning that it contains the original carbon. The wood is unaltered chemically and biologically. These Eocene-age fossil forests contain plants now found in southern China and Japan, but they were fossilized at a high latitude similar to where they are today. As a result, there is no modern analog to the past climate of this region, because the trees needed to endure at least three months of darkness in the Arctic winter. The remarkable preservation of leaves, leaf litter, seeds, roots, and soils allows use of standard field measurements to study the forest. These studies indicate that the forest productivity was comparable to today’s temperate old-growth forests. Further to the south, on Bylot Island, are dinosaur fossils from the late Cretaceous, 65 to 97 million years ago.

Mars on Earth

Haughton Crater is an impact structure that was formed about 39 million years ago. This 23-km-diameter crater and the surrounding area is viewed as a terrestrial analog for Mars, and a scientific effort here is carried on by the Mars Institute. Although the crater area was forested at the time of the impact, the crater and its site are now frigid and show similarities with Mars, including networks of small valleys that may have been carved beneath a sheet of melting ice. The combination of high latitude, a former lake, and remnant hot springs makes Haughton a good model for how to look for signs of Martian life.

Where Mammals Returned to Sea

Following the impact, the crater was filled with a lake and sediments accumulated. Fossils of fishes, rhino, and tapir are found, along with fruits and seeds, cones and needles of pines, spruce, and birch. Sediments dating to 21 to 24 million years ago contain fossils of a semi-aquatic carnivores related to bears, now believed to be the ancestors of modern-day seals. Although the skeleton of the animal is otter-like, the skull indicates that it is a relative of seals, lions and walruses. This is transitional fossil evidence of mammals returning to the sea.

Where Fish Came Ashore

To the north on Ellesmere Island in Devonian-aged rocks, a 375-million-year-old fossil fish provides a transitional fossil between fish and four-legged animals. The fish named Tiktaalik roseae could prop itself up on mud or rocks in a shallow water body, as well as swim.

Canada has established a large three-unit national park on Bylot Island and northern Baffin Island. Simirlik National Park preserves seabird and waterfowl nesting areas, rugged mountains, scenic hoodoos, and fiords of Eclipse Sound, the Borden Peninsula, and Bylot.

IV. Terrestrial Ecoregions

Nearctic (NA) Biome

Tundra

· NA 1105, Baffin Coastal tundra. Vegetation of mosses, herbs, poppy, and woodrush with arctic hare and polar bears. Found on the coastal plain of the north coast of Baffin Island facing Baffin Bay, Nunavut.

· NA 1109, Davis Highlands tundra. Ice-capped mountains overlooking Fiords. Vegetation of mosses, sedge, cottongrass. Found along Baffin Bay coastline of Baffin and Bylot islands, Nunavut.

· NA 1110, High Arctic tundra. Clumps of moss, lichen, sedge, and cottongrass. Found in the interior and northern peninsulas of Baffin Island, Devon Island, Ellesmere, and Axel Heiburg Islands, Nunavut.

· NA 1112, Kalaallit Nunaat high arctic tundra. Ice-free areas on the coastal fringes of Greenland harbor heath and mossy swamps. Arctic fox, cariou, musk oxen, wolves, and polar bears. Found in Kalaalit Nunaat.

· NA 1115, Middle Arctic tundra. Among the coldest and driest landscapes of Canada. Some arctic willow is present, but mostly herbs and lichen vegetation are present. Found in northwestern Baffin Island, Nunavut.

V. Marine Ecoregions

Arctic Realm, Arctic Province

1. North Greenland. Found along coast north of Cape Atholl including Kane Basin and Murchison Sound.

4. West Greenland Shelf. Found in Melville Bay.

7. Baffin Bay-Davis Straight. Found along Baffin Island, Bylot Island, eastern Devon Island, and eastern Ellesmere Island coastline.

8. Hudson Complex. Found in Fury and Hecla Straight and Steensby Inlet off Baffin Island.

9. Lancaster Sound. Found in Admiralty Inlet, Boothia Gulf, Eclipse Sound, Jones Sound, Lancaster Sound, and Prince Regent Inlet.

10. High Arctic Archipelago. Found in Eureka Sound and Norwegian Bay.

VI. Freshwater Ecoregions

North America, Polar Freshwater

112. Canadian Arctic Archipelago. Found on Baffin, Devon, Ellesmere, and Axel Heiberg Islands.

VII. Points of Interest

Appat Appai, Kalaallit Nunaat (Greenland). An important bird area. This stretch of coastline in west Greenland harbors large numbers of breeding seabirds, including thick-billed guillemot and black-legged kittiwake. Terrestrial ecoregion 1112 and marine ecoregion 4.

Berlinguet Inlet, Baffin Island, Nunavut. An important bird area. The southern part of Admiralty Inlet and Bernier Bay off of Prince Regent Inlet are a greater snow goose breeding area; also found are ringed and bearded seals and polar bears. Terrestrial ecoregion 1115 and marine ecoregion 9.

Booth Sound, Kalaallit Nunaat. An important bird area. Common eider breed in this area of tundra and marsh dotted with islands. Terrestrial ecoregion 1112 and marine ecoregion 1.

Brodeur Peninsula, Baffin Island, Nunavut. Important bird area. Plateaus in northwestern Brodeur are covered with limestone rubble and support one fourth of the Canadian population of ivory gull. Terrestrial ecoregion 1110.

Buchan Gulf, Baffin Island, Nunavut. Important bird area. Two sections of coastal cliffs, the Mitres and the Bastions, extend for 22 km along a fiord and rise to 600 m. This is the breeding area for a large colony of northern fulmars. Terrestrial ecoregion 1109 and marine ecoregion 7.

Camp Century, Kalaallit Nunaat. This site on the Greenland ice sheet was a cold war project to build underground ice tunnels and store nuclear weapons from 1963-1966. Ice cores obtained are still used by scientists to study climate change. Terrestrial ecoregion 1112.

Cape Vera and St. Helena Island, Devon Island, Nunavut. An important bird area. The offshore island of St. Helena hosts breeding fulmar, eider, gulls, and terns. St. Helena also contains archaeological sites where stones were placed to encourage eider nesting and easy eider trapping. During most years, a polynya, an area of open water that persists when the rest of the ocean freezes, forms between St. Helena Island and North Kent Island. The polynya is used by walrus, seal, and polar bear. Terrestrial ecoregion 1110 and marine ecoregions 9 and 10.

Cape Atholl coastline, Kalaallit Nunaat. An important bird area. The 200-km coastline between Cape Atholl and Appaliarsulissuaq contains steep cliffs and rock screes on the mainland and nearby islands and is internationally important for the dovekie (little auk).

Carey Island, Kalaallit Nunaat. An important bird area. These islands and sea cliffs between Ellesmere Island and Greenland are a breeding area for thick-billed guillemot and glaucous gull. Terrestrial ecoregion 1112 and marine ecoregion 1.

Dalrymple Rock, Kalaallit Nunaat. An important bird area. This small rocky island is a breeding area for Atlantic puffin and common eider. Terrestrial ecoregion 1112 and marine ecoregion 1.

Devon Nunatuks, Devon Island, Nunavut. An important bird area. Rock outcrops that stick out above the ice cap on eastern Devon are home to nesting ivory gull. Terrestrial ecoregion 1110.

Hakluyt Island, Kalaallit Nunaat. An important bird area. Sea cliffs provide breeding habitat for thick-billed guillemot and black-legged kittiwake. Terrestrial ecoregion 1112 and marine ecoregion 1.

Haughton Crater, Devon Island, Nunavut. This 23-km diameter, 39-million-year-old impact crater is viewed as a terrestrial analog for Mars, and a scientific effort here is carried on by the Mars Institute. Although the crater area was forested at the time of the impact, the crater and its site are now frigid and show similarities with Mars, including networks of small valleys that may have been carved beneath a sheet of melting ice. The combination of high latitude, a former lake, and remnant hot springs makes Haughton a good model for how to look for signs of Martian life. Following the impact, the crater was filled with water and a lake formed. Here, approximately 21 to 24 million years ago, were formed fossil beds. A recent discovery is of a semi-aquatic mammal, Puijila, which is a transitional fossil between seals and other bears. Ecoregion 1110.

Hobhouse Inlet, Devon Island, Nunavut. An important bird area. The eastern side of the inlet contains a peninsula with cliffs to 460 m. Northern fulmars, gulls, and black guillemot nest on grassy ledges. Terrestrial ecoregion 1110 and marine ecoregion 9.

Inglefield Mountains, Ellesmere Island, Nunavut. An important bird area. The area north and south of Makinson Inlet houses one third of the Canadian ivory gull population, nesting on nunatuks and rocky cliffs. Terrestrial ecoregion 1110 and marine ecoregion 9.

Kent, North, Island and Calf Island, Nunavut. An important bird area. Both North Kent and Calf have flat plateaus rising to 600 m, surrounded by steep cliffs. The cliffs provide nesting habitat for black guillemot, common eider, and gulls. See Cape Vera description for the polynya off the coast. Terrestrial ecoregion 1110 and marine ecoregions 9 and 10.

Lancaster Sound Polynya, off of Nunavut. An important bird area. This persistent ice-free area is used by migrant dovekies, which nest in the Thule area of Greenland. Marine ecoregions 7 and 9.

Littleton Island, Kalaallit Nunaat. An important bird area. Common eider breeds on this rocky low-lying island. Terrestrial ecoregion 1112 and marine ecoregion 1.

Mary River Project, Baffin Island, Nunavut. The Baffinland Iron Mines Corporation plans to develop an iron ore mine. The mine would be shipped via a new railroad 140 km south to Steensby Inlet in the Foxe Basin. Seasonal access is also proposed at Milne Inlet, a southern extension of Eclipse Sound, via a 99-km haul road. Environmental documents seeking consent from the Nunavut government are in preparation. Terrestrial ecoregions 1110 and 1115; marine ecoregion 8.

Napartulik, Axel Heiberg Island, Nunavut. This is the site of an unusual mummified fossil forest from the Eocene period (34-55 million years old). Lack of mineralization means the palms, dawn redwood, and swamp cypress trees that are present contain the original carbon.

Nirjutiqavvik National Wildlife Area, Coburg Island, Nunavut. Cambridge Point on Coburg is an important bird area. Located in Baffin Bay between Devon and Ellesmere, this is a nesting area for 385,000 birds, including black-legged kittiwakes, thick-billed murre, northern fulmar, and black guillemot. Also present are polar bear, ringed seal, walrus, narwhal, and beluga. Cambridge Point overlooks a polynya, an area of open water that persists when the rest of the ocean freezes. The polynya supports polar bears, seals, and whales. Terrestrial ecoregion 1110 and marine ecoregion 7.

Northumberland Island, Kalaallit Nunaat. An important bird area. Steep, rocky cliffs harbor large numbers of breeding dovekie. Terrestrial ecoregion 1112 and marine ecoregion 1.

Parker Snow Bay, Kalaallit Nunaat. An important bird area. Sea cliffs are breeding area for thick-billed guillemot and black-legged kittiwake.

Prince Leopold Island Migratory Bird Sanctuary, Nunavut. An important bird area. Vertical cliffs of sandstone and limestone rise to 250 m, providing nesting sites for northern fulmar, black-legged kittiwake, thick-billed murre, and black guillemot. Terrestrial ecoregion 1110 and marine ecoregion 9.

Qeqertaarsuit Islands and Saunders Island, Kalaallit Nunaat. An important bird area. Common eider breeds on the small low-lying islands of Qeqertaarsuit and thick-billed guillemot and northern fulmar breed on sea cliffs on Saunders Island. Terrestrial ecoregion 1112 and marine ecoregion 1.

Robertson Fiord coastline, Kalaallit Nunaat. An important bird area. The 160-km coastline and inland glaciers between Robertson Fiord and Foulke Fjord are a breeding area for dovekie. Terrestrial ecoregion 1112 and marine ecoregion 1.

Scott Inlet, Baffin Island, Nunavut. An important bird area. Scott Island contains cliffs to 356 m and the mainland contains cliffs to 1500 m. This is a nesting area for northern fulmar and glaucous gulls. Terrestrial ecoregion 1105 and marine ecoregion 7.

Simirlik National Park, Baffin Island and Bylot Island. The three units of this national park are Bylot Island, a unit on Borden Peninsula, and a unit surrounding Oliver Fiord. Bylot Island is also a Canadian migratory bird sanctuary (MBS). The park includes important bird areas at Baillarge Bay on the Borden Peninsula, Cape Graham Moore on Bylot, Cape Hay on Bylot, and the goose nesting area in southwest Bylot. Bylot Island includes rugged mountains, icefields, glaciers, and coastal lowlands. The Oliver Sound unit includes precipitous mountains lining a scenic fiord, and the Borden Peninsula unit contains a plateau dissected by rivers. The Mala River Valley is a hiking area. The Borden Peninsula also contains hoodoos. Steep cliffs along the ocean at Cape Hay and Cape Graham Moore provide nesting habitat for 320,000 thick-billed murres and 50,000 black-legged kittiwakes. In southwestern Bylot, the moist lowland tundra provides breeding habitat for the largest known colony of snow geese; this is the most dense nesting site north of 70 degrees latitude. An archaeological site, Button Point in southeast Bylot Island, has yielded artifacts such as drums, flint blades, and carved driftwood masks. Eclipse Sound and Navy Board Inlet are known for whales. Ellwin Inlet and Baillarge Bay house a colony of thick-billed murres and black-legged kittiwakes nesting on 600-m high cliffs. Baillarge Bay is the largest northern fulmar colony in Canada. Lancaster Sound contains abundant seabirds, walrus, polar bear, seals, and whales. Eclipse Sound is covered by ice until mid-summer, but is habitat for narwhals and polar bears. Terrestrial ecoregions 1109 and 1110, marine ecoregions 7 and 9.

Skruis Point, Devon Island, Nunavut. An important bird area. This is noted as the largest black guillemot breeding colony. Terrestrial ecoregion 1110 and marine ecoregion 9.

Stenkul Fiord, Ellesmere Island, Nunavut. Large metasequoia logs and tree stumps of Paleocene age (55 million years old) are found rooted in coal layers. Ecoregion 1110.

Strathcona Fiord, Ellesmere Island, Nunavut. Eocene-age (34 to 50 million years old) fossil forests contain alligators, giant tortoises, primates, and tapirs. Ecoregion 1110.

Sverdrup Pass, Ellesmere Island, Nunavut. Arctic hares make trails on Ellesmere Island as they walk single-file across Sverdrup Pass. Ecoregion 1110.

Sydkap Ice Field, Ellesmere Island, Nunavut. An important bird area. This is noted as the breeding site for the ivory gull. Ecoregion 1110.

Tamaarvik Territorial Park, Baffin Island, Nunavut. A provincial camping area offers hiking to glaciers and mountains south of Pond Inlet and serves as a gateway to Simirlik National Park. Ecoregion 1109.

Tiktaalik, Ellesmere Island, Nunavut. In 2004, a transitional form between fish and four-legged land animals was found on southern Ellesmere Island in Devonian-age rocks. The animal could swim like a fish, as well as prop itself up in shallow waer. It lived 12 million years before the first tetrapods on land. Ecoregion 1110.

VIII. References

Abell, Robin et al. 2008. Freshwater Ecoregions of the World: A New Map of Biogeographic Units for Freshwater Biodiversity Conservation. Bioscience 58:403-414.

Baffinland Iron Mines Corporation, Toronto. http://www.baffinland.com/ (accessed 8/15/2010).

BirdLife International. 2009. Important Bird Area factsheets. Downloaded from the Data Zone at http://www.birdlife.org/ (accessed September 5, 2010).

Brown, Norah. Eocene Fossil Forests. Hooper Virtual Natural History Museum, Carleton University, Ottawa, Canada. http://hoopermuseum.earthsci.carleton.ca/forest/eocene01.html (accessed September 5, 2010).

Canadian BirdLife International co partners Bird Studies Canada and Nature Canada, an on-line Important Bird Area site directory. http://www.bsc-eoc.org/

Canadian Museum of Nature. Ukaliq: the Arctic Hare. http://nature.ca/ukaliq (accessed September 5, 2010).

Canadian Museum of Nature. Puijila: A Prehistoric Walking Seal. http://nature.ca/puijila/index_e.cfm (accessed September 5, 2010).

Canadian Wildlife Service. National Migratory Bird Sanctuaries. www.qc.ec.gc.ca/faune/faune/html/mbs.html

Daeschler, Edward B., Neil H. Shubin and Farish A. Jenkins, Jr. 2006. A Devonian Tetrapod-Like Fish and the Evolution of the Tetrapod Body Plan. Nature 440:757-763 (6 April).

Dawson, Mary R., Robert M. West, Wann Langston, Jr., and J. Howard Hutchison. 1976. Paleogene Terrestrial Vertebrates: Northernmost Occurrence, Ellesmere Island, Canada. Science 192:781-782.

DeVilliers, Marq. 2001. Guide to America’s Outdoors: Eastern Canada. Washington, National Geographic Society.

Dunbar, David. 1991. The Outdoor Traveler’s Guide to Canada. Stewart, Tabori and Chang, New York.

Earth Impact Database. University of New Brunswick, Planetary and Space Science Centre, Fredericton. www.unb.ca/passc/ImpactDatabase (accesssed 11/1/09).

Haughton-Mars Project. http://www.marsonearth.org/ (accessed 8/15/2010).

Holmes, Bob. 2009. Fossil seal had the feet of an otter. New Scientist issue 2705 (25 April 2009). www.newscientist.com/issue/2505 (accessed September 5, 2010).

Irion, Robert. 2002. Astrobiologists Try to ‘Follow the Water to Life.’ Science 296:647-648.

Jefferson, Ann. 2010. Coal and the Fossil Record of Climate Change in the Canadian High Arctic. http://scienceblogs.com/highlyallochthonous/2010/01/ (accessed September 5, 2010).

Krajick, Kevin. 2003. In Search of the Ivory Gull. Science 301:1840-1841.

Leskovitz, Frank J. Science Leads the Way: Camp Century. http://gombessa.tripod.com/scienceleadstheway/id9.html (accessed September 5, 2010).

McKinnon, L. et al. 2010. Lower Predation Risk for Migratory Birds at High Latitudes. Science 327:326-327.

Nunavut Parks. http://www.nunavutparks.com/ (accessed April 6, 2010).

Olson, David M., et al., 2001. Terrestrial Ecoregions of the World: A New Map of Life on Earth. BioScience 51:933-938. Ecoregion map at http://www.nationgeographic.com/wildworld/terrestrial.html

Omar, Gomaa et al. 1987. Fission-Track Dating of Haughton Astrobleme and Included Biota, Devon Island, Canada. Science 237:1603-1605 (25 September).

Parks Canada. http://www.pc.gc.ca/. (accessed October 4, 2009).

Rich, Thomas H., Patricia Vickers-Rich and Roland A. Gangloff. 2002. Polar Dinosaurs. Science 295:979-980.

Rybczynski, Natalia, Mary R. Dawson and Richard H. Telford. 2009. A Semi-Aquatic Arctic Mammalian Carnivore from the Miocene Epoch and Origin of Pinnipedia. Nature 458:1021-1024 (23 April).

Shubin, Neil. 2008. Your Inner Fish. Random House, New York.

Shubin, Neil, Ted DAeschler, and Farish A. Jenkins, Jr. 2005 Tiktaalik roseae homepage. http://tiktaalik.uchicago.edu/index.html (accessed September 5, 2010).

Spalding, Mark D. and 14 others. 2007. Marine Ecoregions of the World: A Bioregionalization of Coastal and Shelf Areas. Bioscience 57:573-583.

Williams, Christopher J., Ben A. LePage, Arthur H. Johnson, and David R. Vann. 2009. Structure, Biomass, and Productivity of a Late Paleocene Arctic Forest. Proceedings of the Academy of Natural Sciences of Philadelphia 158:107-127.

Williams, Christopher J. Penn Fossil Forest Project. http://www.sas.upenn.edu/earth/arctic/intro.html (accessed September 5, 2010).

World Database of Protected Areas. http://www.wdpa.org/ (Accessed August 9, 2009).